Product Review: Hirsana Capsules for Skin, Hair, and Nails

Every year, men and women worldwide spend approximately $2 billion on skin care products, most notably on cleansers, lotions, and creams. However, customers may do better if they choose to invest in supplements as well: according to this 2007 study in The Journal of Skin Pharmacology and Physiology,eating an ingredient is more beneficial than topically applying it, while getting the ingredient both orally and topically is most beneficial. 

Company Promises 

With that said, Hirsana Capsules for Skin, Hair, and Nails ($30 for 30 capsules or $72 for 90 capsules; HirsanaUsa.com) promise to provide more lustrous skin, thicker hair, and healthier nails with just three months’ of two-capsules-daily use, followed by one capsule per day thereafter.  The company asserts that the supplement is suitable for long-term use.  

“Does It Work?” |  Ingredient Analysis

The main ingredient in each 200-mg Hirsana Capsule is 59.7% golden millet oil.   According to this article by GeneCampaign.org, golden millet oil is genetically engineered from two lines of high-nutrition pearl millet bred from Zambia as a part of a project by the International Crops Research Institute for the Semi Arid Tropics (ICRISAT).  The chief purpose of golden millet oil is to deliver very high concentrations of beta-carotene, a lipid antioxidant.  Although other antioxidants have been shown to be chemopreventative and/or anticarcinogenic, it was found bya study in The New England Journal of Medicine that beta-carotene does not prevent against both basal-cell and squamous-cell skin cancers, and further established in a study in The Lancet that supplementation with beta-carotene does not help to prevent or treat skin cancer.

So what is the potential benefit of taking Hirsana?  One potential benefit is that beta-carotene ingestion leads to the production vitamin A in vivo via the action of the intestinal enzyme beta-carotene 15,15′-monooxygenase, which specifically cleaves beta-carotene into two pro-vitamin A molecules.  Given that retinoids (a form of vitamin A) are considered by many dermatologists to be a “gold standard” in anti-aging, using beta-carotene supplementation to increase serum levels of vitamin A may be solid way to reap the benefits of the fat-soluble vitamin.  In fact, according to Juergen Erhardt, a researcher at the University of Hohenheim in Germany, who collaborated on the ICRISAT project, “To have a staple food with a naturally high content of beta-carotene would be the easiest way to alleviate vitamin A deficiency.”   

Therefore, given that beta-carotene is a proven in vivo precursor of vitamin A, it is very plausible that daily supplementation of beta-carotene could lead to some (or all) of the benefits provided by vitamin A, including prevention of collagen loss,stimulation of collagen production, and increased cellular turnover rates.  In fact, daily supplementation of beta-carotene in the prescription treatment Lumitene® has been found to be effective in treating the symptoms of erythropoietic protoporphyria, a rare inherited genetic disorder of porphyrin-heme metabolism that often results in photosensitivity (painful skin sensitivity to sunlight), as well as gallstones and liver dysfunction.  However, more research needs to be done before the benefits of golden millet oil supplementation can be deemed conclusive.

Other ingredients in Hirsana Capsules include 100% of the FDA Daily Value of vitamin E (primarily an antioxidant), vitamin B6, thiamin, riboflavin, and biotin, as well as 50% of pantothenic acid and zinc.  Of these, vitamin E and biotinsupplements have been shown to have the most conclusive evidence supporting benefits for the hair, skin, and nails.   

Are There Potential Risks?

Beta-carotene supplementation is often questioned because high doses can lead to carotenodermia, a harmless condition that presents as a conspicuous orange skin.  (This is due to the deposition of pigment in the epidermis, or top layer of the skin).  Because carotenodermia is harmless, the FDA does not provide an established upper level (UL) for beta-carotene.  However, proper usage of Hirsana should not cause carotenodermia in normal healthy individuals, as the average 150-lb (68 kg) adult requires approximately 1800 mg beta carotene/day to maintain adequate vitamin A levels, and each capsule of Hirsana contains only 200 mg golden millet seed oil, of which only part is directly converted to beta-carotene.  

According to the NIH, beta-carotene supplementation in combination with selenium (not in Hirsana), vitamin C, and vitamin E may also decrease the effectiveness of a combination of simvastatin (Zocor®) and niacin.  Talk to your physician if you have any concerns.

When taking any new supplement, I also like to sign up for a nutritional database so I can make sure I am not receiving any toxic levels of any vitamin from my combined supplement and food intake.  Free services are available atCalorieCounter.com or FitDay.com.

As always, talk to your physician before starting this or any other supplement.

Personal Use & Overall Opinions

After using the capsules for two weeks, I have noticed that my nails seem to have grown faster, but it will be awhile before I can honestly tell a difference in my hair (it’s pretty long) or my skin (it’s already very ‘antioxidized’ and moisturized!).  One caveat:  the capsules do leave a bit of a grainy, cereal-like aftertaste (it’s hard to explain), so I recommend taking them with food.     

I personally like combining oral supplements and topical ingredients for skin care. And I like Hirsana Capsules for Skin, Hair, and Nails due to their very high concentration of golden millet oil (which in turn provides a high concentration of beta carotene) and the fact that they provide 100% of the daily value of antioxidant vitamin E and biotin, which have both been shown to have benefits for the skin, hair, and nails when ingested via supplement.  While I feel as though more research needs to be done before the benefits of golden millet oil can be deemed conclusive, I still like this product, and will continue to use it for a while.  Product Rating: 7/9 (= 7.8/10).  (High concentration of proven-effective ingredients: 2.5/3.  Value for the money: 2/3.  New technology or original formulation: 2.5/3.  Sunscreen: 0/0 (N/A).)

roduct Review: Wexler MMpi 20 Skin Brightening and Pore Refining Serum & Daily Defense Anti-Oxidant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30

According to Dr. Patricia Wexler, M.D. on Vogue.TV, “You have to select your [skin] problems…and act to treat those problems.”  That said, with Dr. Wexler’s new MMpi 20 Skin Brightening and Pore Refining Serum ($55.00, BathandBodyWorks.com) & Daily Defense Anti-Oxidant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30 ($29.50, BathandBodyWorks.com), expect to treat lackluster skin (increased brightness occurs with soy extract, acetyl glucosamine, vitamin C, and the serum’s Melaclear tyrosinase inhibitor), as well as prevent signs of future damage (with the patented Niacyl complex,as well as antioxidants and sunscreen). 

MMpi 20 Skin Brightening and Pore Refining Serum 

MMpi 20 Skin Brightening and Pore Refining Serum ($55.00, BathandBodyWorks.com) is a very solid product.  My favorite ingredient in the formulation is Melaclear,  a patented ingredient designed to treat hyperpigmentation by Sederma.  (A sister product is called Melaslow).  Like arbutin and hydroquinone, Melaclear works by inhibiting tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin production.  Although a publicly available, non-company-affiliated study has not compared the efficacy of Melaclear to other hyperpigmentation treatments, my best hypothesis (and this is only a hypothesis!) would be that it has similar effectiveness to arbutin, and is most likely less effective than 4% hydroquinone.  

Still, MMpi 20 Skin Brightening and Pore Refining Serum also contains N-acetyl glucosamine, the patented Niacyl complex, soybean extract, and new stable form of vitamin C to increase skin’s brightness.  N-acetyl glucosamine has been established to make a statistically significant difference in hyperpigmentation, as reported in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology in 2009.  In addition, the potent combination of N-acetyl glucosamine (NAG) and niacinamide was recently shown to reduce facial hyperpigmentation in Japanese and Caucasian subjects with facial hyperpigmentation in two double-blind, vehicle-controlled, split-face, left-right randomized clinical studies.   It is likely that the patented Niacyl complex in this product has similar efficacy to the niacinamide used in the study, as niacinamide is simply the basic form of niacin.  The soy extract also treats hyperpigmentation and brightens: in this 2000 study in the journal Dermatology that human trials demonstrate lightening of hyperpigmentation after use of realistic concentrations of soybean extract for just two weeks.  Finally, the BVOSC vitamin C used in the product (tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate) has been proposed as a more stable form of vitamin C than the traditional L-ascorbic acid.  Vitamin C runs the gamut in benefits - from decreased hyperpigmentation to increased antioxidant protection to increased collagen production - and BVOSC has been shown in a double-blind, half-face study in Dermatologic Surgery to provide statistically significant benefits.  In other words, this product is a huge thumbs-up for treating hyperpigmentation.  

So what’s the problem with MMpi 20 Skin Brightening and Pore Refining Serum?  My only issue is with this or any other product that says “pore-refining.”  From what I have learned from dermatologists, it is not possible to change the size of your pores (hence, I guess why the product doesn’t say “pore-reducing.”)  At any rate, please do not use this or any other product expecting to see a change in the size of your pores.  While certain products may clean out your pores to make them appear smaller (try 2% salicyclic acid) and others may use alcohol to inflame the skin cells to make the pores appear smaller by contrast, nothing will actually reduce the size of your pores.  Just a side note.   

Daily Defense Anti-Oxidant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30

My favorite ingredient in the Daily Defense Anti-Oxidant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30 ($29.50, BathandBodyWorks.com) is the antioxidant concentrate NDGA.  Like Dr. Perricone consistently defines his products by inclusion of DMAE, Dr. Wexler appears to be the only dermatologist (at least that I know of) that is including NGDA in her products.  According to the journal Mutation Research, NGDA has potent antioxidant, antimutagenic, and anticarcinogenic activity.  NGDA exhibits its antioxidant activity by lipooxygenase inhibition, in a similar fashion to the antioxidant quercetin.  Unfortunately, it has been reported that some patients develop contact dermatitis after use of NGDA, so talk to your dermatologist to ensure your skin’s tolerance of the ingredient.  (Perhaps this is why the product includes Symcalmin, a patented ingredient to treat inflammation of the skin).  

Wexler Daily Defense Anti-Oxidant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30 also contains other antioxidants (apple extract for one), soy extract, and the Niacyl complex.  My only wish for the product was that it contained more photostable forms of sunscreen: while Helioplex (avobenzone and oxybenzone) and Mexoryl SX/XL are touted by this excellent 2007 reviewfor their photostability, it is unknown at this time how the combination of sunscreens in this product compare (i.e., homosalate 8.0%, octinoxate 7.0%, octisalate 6.0%, oxybenzone 6.0%, and titanium dioxide 1.0%).  Still, it is undoubtedly true that the product does contain reasonable sun protection.  

Overall Opinions

I’m a huge fan of Dr. Wexler, and I think that these two products are a testament to her knowledge, training, and willingness to incorporate new technology and rarely-used ingredients into effective and original formulations.  I give these very high marks!  Product Rating (Serum):  8.5/10.  (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 3/3.   New formulation or technology: 3/3.  Value for the money: 2.5/3.  Sunscreen:  0/1.)  Product Rating (Moisturizer):  9.0/10.  (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 3/3.  New formulation or technology: 3/3.  Value for the money: 3/3.  Sunscreen: 1/1).  

Also, if you wish to order Wexler products, sign up for EBates.com and receive 3% cash back from your order!  (Cash back is typically delivered as a check in 6-8 weeks.  Please visitEBates.com for more info.)

Love-Renaissance Skin Care: New to the U.S…and New to My Skin Care Regimen!

Love-Renaissance is a beautiful store at the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center.

Recently, while on vacation in Hawaii, I came across a lovely skin care store calledLove-Renaissance.  Established and quite popular in Japan, Love-Renaissance is relatively new to the American seaboard, having set up a U.S. shop in only Hawaii thus far.  And while I visited many skin care stores and spas during my visit to Hawaii, I must say, this was by far my favorite find.

Love-Renaissance is not the typical skin care system you will see getting high marks on this website.  For one, Love-Renaissance is significantly more expensive than most drugstore brands, and it has never been conclusive that there is a statistically significant difference between the performance of most department store and drugstore brands of skin care.  Second, Love-Renaissance does not contain what are arguably the five most proven effective ingredients in anti-aging skin care today: sunscreen, retinoids, niacinamide, antioxidants, or alpha hydroxy acids.  Lastly, proper use the complete Love-Renaissance system requires four steps: cleansing (a cleansing oil, $47.00-$57.00), moistening (a cleansing foam or soap, $33.00-$57.00), supplementing (with a serum-like product called milk, $57.00-$65.00), and protecting (moisturizing gel or cream $76.00-$95.00) – a multitude of steps some experts would say is excessive.  

However, Love-Renaissance still manages to deliver high-performance results with its inclusion of very high concentrations of all-natural, but scientifically proven, ingredients.  (The salesperson informed me that the main ingredients were included in concentrations up to 80%, but I could not find documentation online verifying this statement).  Love-Renaissance has four separate lines, each concentrating on one specific ingredient:  Verdi (olive leaf and royal jelly); Noe (olive leaf); Sakuyahime (cherry leaf extract); and Swaness (brown rice extract).  The cherry leaf extract in Sakuyahime has been demonstrated in published scientific journals to have anti-oxidant and anti-carcinogenic activity, with the additional inclusion of vitamin C, which helps to fight hyperpigmentation by controlling melanin production.  The brown rice extract in the Swaness line has been shown to be anticarcinogenic and anti-inflammatory, with the potential to also inhibit portions of the free radical pathwaythat lead to oxidative damage.  Lastly, olive leaf (in Verdi and Noe) has perhaps the least independent scientifically published data behind it, with one study demonstrating its antiviral activity.

I personally have been using the Sakuyahime line for the past three weeks, and I can honestly say my skin looks smoother and feels softer.  However, I am only using the entire system at night, as I will not forgo my ultra-effective morning routine (Skinceuticals CE Ferulic,   (or 100) OR  ), at least until conclusive published research shows there are more effective products for ultimate sun protection.  

And while I miss my nighttime prescription retinoid and Revale Skin’s coffeeberry moisturizer, for a short while, I am pleased with the results of Love-Renaissance and will continue to use it.  I look at it like my skin is still on vacation: maybe not the most productive use of my time, but definitely relaxing and soothing…and I am definitely enjoying the luxurious pampering experience!  :-)

With that said, I really love these products.  To order, please see information below.  Product Rating: 7.0/10.  High concentration of proven ingredients: 2.5/3.  New technology or unique formulation: 3/3.   Value for the money: 1.5/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1.  

Take care!  :-)

Ordering information for Love-Renaissance:
2301 Kalakaua Avenue, Honolulu HI 96815
Tel: 808.923.0991
http://www.love-renaissance.com 

The Best Sunscreens for Oily/Acne-Prone Skin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On vacation in Hawaii right now (I’m sorry, I know I’m a lucky girl and I can’t help it), I’ve had a few friends in the area (and back home in Pittsburgh) ask me what sunscreen to use for their oily/acne-prone skin.

With that said, I’ve found a few products that have very promising ingredients for that very skin type.  As always, however, check with your dermatologist before trying any new products. 

Best Overall:  LaRoche Posay SPF 60 Fluide Extreme ($44.00, Amazon.com).  The first high-SPF product I ever used, this double-formulated (Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL) milky product provides superior UVA and UVB protection without a greasy feel or telltale white streaks. 

Mexoryl (ecamsule) is an ingredient in chemical sunscreens that has been available in Europe for many years, and which came to the U.S. only this year. Mexoryl, available as SX (water soluble) and XL (lipid soluble), is very effective for two reasons: one, because it is very stable [as a benzylidene camphor derivative], and two, because it absorbs light at a broader range of UVA wavelengths than many other sunscreens. After absorbing light from this broad spectrum, ecamsule undergoes photoisomerization, followed by photoexcitation, which means that it causes for UV light to be released as thermal energy rather than allowing for UV light to be absorbed into the skin and cause damage, as most chemical sunscreens do. Additionally, the combination of Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL are even more stable than each alone; however, Mexoryl XL is often not tolerated in patients with sensitive skin, and so only Mexoryl SX is featured in L’Oréal products sold in the U.S.

If your skin is not sensitive, but is oily/acne-prone, I believe this is the best product on the market.  Best of all, beauty bloggers and forum contributors with oily/acne prone skin attest to its ability to protect without causing breakouts.  Of course, always check with your dermatologist!     

 

Best Drugstore Product:  Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF 85 ($21.98 for two, Amazon.com).  Let’s start off this review with a bit of disappointment:  this product does not absorb nearly as sheer or dry as the LaRoche Posay SPF 60 Fluide Extreme for Face does.  However, for the cost ($21.98 for 6 of the Neutrogena product versus $44.00 for 6.1 ounces of the LaRoche Posay product), Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF 85 still absorbs dry and sheer enough to make it the best in the drugstore class.

The main ingredient in Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF 85 is Helioplex. According to Johnson & Johnson, the parent company of Neutrogena, Helioplex is a stabilized, patented combination of oxybenzone and avobenzone that has been demonstrated in clinical tests to provide longer-lasting UVA protection than most other sunscreens. In fact, it has been documented (and cited here) that Helioplex is more photostable than even the Mexoryl SX found in the LaRoche Posay product – another reason to consider it!

Despite the superior protection, again, Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF 85 tends to leave telltale white streaks on the face.  I personally use it everyday, but if I have an important event to attend, I automatically reach for my LaRoche Posay SPF 60 Fluide Extreme for Face .

Best Physical Protection:  Physical sunscreens prevent UV light from penetrating the skin, while chemical sunscreens prevent subsequent damage after UV rays are absorbed by the skin.  While some dermatologists (and research from the University of Arizona) swear by layering a chemical sunscreen under a physical sunscreen, knowing patients often prefer physical sunscreens alone because they often do not interact as much with their cosmetics (particularly when their sunscreens contain micronized zinc or titanium dioxide), and for an overall movement towards less chemicals in skin care. 

With that said, the best physical sunscreen for oily/acne-prone skin that I am aware of is Mychelle Sun Shield SPF 28 ($30.67 for two 2.3 ounce tubes, Amazon.com).  This sunscreen contains over 11% zinc oxide and under 1% titanium dioxide – the ideal formulation for UVA protection!  According to a 1999 study by Mitchnik et al., microfine zinc oxide absorbs more UV light than titanium dioxide in the long-wave UVA spectrum, from 340 to 380 nm, and hence provides more effective UVA protection.

I personally have used the Mychelle Sun Shield SPF 28, and while I do not have oily/acne-prone skin (rather normal/sensitive), I thought that it dried well on the skin, with a minimum of white streaks.  With all due honesty, I did not like it as much as the LaRoche Posay, but if you want a physical sunscreen, Mychelle Sun Shield SPF 28 may be the best out there.

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With that said, let me know you have any sunscreens that you swear by in Comments below!  Please be sure to include your skin type. 

 

 

Photo:  Hawaii #16 – Baby wolphin

Originally uploaded by Mark Interrante (aka pinhole) (flickr)

A Fresh New Hair Removal System: Eyebrow Threading, Featuring the Sun Maita At-Home Eyebrow Threading Kit

A couple of weeks ago, I noticed a new stand at the mall that provided eyebrow threading. Curious, I laid down in the chair. Fifteen enlightened minutes later, I was hooked: never before had the lines of my eyebrows looked so clean, even after waxing and plucking! Intrigued, I waited a full month, and sure enough, it took a full six weeks before I needed to get my eyebrows reshaped. Could it be love? A miracle?

Turns out it’s actually just an ancient technique, originating in India and commonly practiced in the Middle East. According to Wisegeek.com, eyebrow threading is distinct from plucking or waxing because it removes one clean line of hair all at once, making it much quicker and easier to shape the brows. The procedure, described by Essortment.com here, involves little more than a piece of 100% cotton string. The thread is held between the teeth or is anchored around the neck of the beautician, while the other end is held firmly with the left (or non-dominant) hand. The index and middle fingers of the right (or dominant) hand then form a loop in the center of the string, and the thread is rolled over the surface of the skin, collecting the hairs as it moves. For a video, the Eyebrow Threading NBC 10 Special (courtesy YouTube) is excellent.

Eyebrow threading is gaining popularity recently due to increasing concerns of women over use of chemicals in depilatories and waxes. Because threading does not involve the use of chemicals, there are no risks of chemical-based irritation or allergy. However, eyebrow threading is not without risks. According to a 2008 review in Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, complications may include verrucae (cited here in a 2009 issue of the Indian Journal of Dermatology), erythema (redness), folliculitis, pseudofolliculitis, hyperpigmentation, and depigmentation, including koebnerization of vitiligo (this case described in more detail in a 2002 issue of Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology). It has been suggested in Clinical and Experimental Dermatology that these complications are the result of impaired epidermal-barrier function. As such, patients need to be aware of these potential risks and seek out experienced practitioners to conduct the procedure.

As for me, I learned the technique and (very carefully) now use the at-home Sun Maita Eyebrow Threading Kit ($150.00, SunMaita.com). For $150.00, the kit includes the handheld threader, two lotions (including a numbing lotion and anti-irritating lotion), chalk, 24 sets of organic cotton blended replacement threads, and an instructional booklet. An instructional video of how to perform the procedure is also available online here. While the proper technique admittedly took a few attempts to master, I am really pleased with the overall professional results of this kit. I am also happy to report that my brows still take a few weeks to grow back. Overall, comparing waxing/tweezing with threading, I am going to stick with threading, but I have listed the pros/cons of each below. Let me know your thoughts, and don’t forget to enter the FutureDerm – Sustainable Youth Technologies Giveaway!

Tweezing/Waxing

(-) Waxing involves chemicals that may be irritating to some patients
(-) Risks of tweezing include periorbital cellulitis, reported by The American Journal of Ophthamology, though very rare
(-) Redness and pain reported
(+)No published reports of hyperpigmentation or depigmentation (at least not that I could find)

Threading

(+) Does not involve chemical that may be irritating to some patients
(-) Risks include erythema (redness), folliculitis, pseudofolliculitis, hyperpigmentation, and depigmentation, including koebnerization of vitiligo, as published in a 2008 review in Clinical and Experimental Dermatology
(-) Redness and pain reported
(+) Slightly more aesthetically pleasing results (opinion), with greater definition of the brow line
(+) Some have reported longer times before hair grows back; however, this has yet to be substantiated

Product Review: Aveda Enbrightenment Skin Care

This month, just as we’re all thinking ahead to spring, Aveda introduces their new Enbrightenment Skin Care line.  A five-part system (cleanser, toner, serum, lotion or creme, masque), Enbrightment promises to deliver “a more even skin tone, protection against environmental aggressors…and a luminous, clear complexion” with all parts containing ascorbyl glucoside (vitamin C), glucosamine, brown algae, naturally-derived salicyclic acid, and organic shea butter.  As is usual for Aveda, up to 99.7% of the ingredients in each of the products is naturally derived, and the packaging for the serum, lotion, and cream are 100% PCR PET (Post-Consumer Recycled Polyethylene Terephalate), indicating that a significantly smaller carbon footprint is left from each bottle.  The set comes complete for either Normal/Oily Skin($177.00, Aveda.com) or Dry Skin ($177.00, Aveda.com). 

Ascorbyl glucoside: an effective antioxidant

According to a 2006 study published in Analytica Chemica Acta, ascorbyl glucoside, a relatively new vitamin C derivative in skin care formulations, undergoes conversion to ascorbic acid (by phosphatase in the basal membrane of the epidermis) like other vitamin C derivatives, including magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.  What makes ascorbyl glucoside unique, according to the study in Analytica Chemica Acta, is that ascorbyl glucoside undergoes this conversion in a slower, sustained manner than other derivatives, enabling the vitamin C to stay in the system longer than the other forms of vitamin C.  Unfortunately, ascorbyl glucoside is only available in cosmetic products in concentrations up to 2%.  With that said, it is still unknown how the efficacy of a 2% ascorbyl glucoside formulation compares to a 15% ascorbic acid solution. What is known is that ascorbyl glucoside does have antioxidant activity, as a 2006 study in The Journal of the Chinese Chemical Society verifies its significant antioxidant activity using flow injection analysis on a copper-enriched printed circuit board, and a very recent 2009 study in Skin Research and Technology demonstrates that 2% ascorbyl glucoside and 3.5% niacinamide in combination has significant lightening effect on the skin, which is enhanced further with physician-administered ultrasound treatments (to increase absorption of the ingredients in the skin).  

Glucosamine for age spots/hyperpigmentation

According to the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, glucosamine has been found to inhibit melanin production in the skin by down-regulating melanin gene expression.  Although the exact mechanism by which this occurs is not known, it is speculated that glucosamine plays a role in inhibiting enzymatic glycosylation, a required step in converting inactive human pro-tyrosinase to the active tyrosinase (and tyrosinase is a key enzyme in the production of melanin).

Glucosamine in combination with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants may also be somewhat helpful in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.  According to a 2001 study in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment, glucosamine and antioxidant oral supplements reduced the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by a statistically significant 35% amongst 53 women when taken daily.  The exact formulation was not revealed, but contained glucosamine, vitamin C, vitamin E, selenium, zinc, manganese, and quercitin.  It was, however, also noted in the study that the oral supplement did not increase skin’s hydration, and only decreased the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.  

One final word about glucosamine:  in a 2002 study published in the journal Dermatology amongst 50 women of Asian descent with solar lentigines, it was found that a stabilized soy extract was better at lightening the spots than either a combination of 5% ascorbyl glucosamine, 1% kojic acid and -hydroxyacid esters or a 20% azelaic acid formulation.

Brown Algae for Collagen Preservation?

The Parisian research team of Senni, Godeau et. al. has demonstrated that fucoidan (an extract derived from brown algae) is able to stimulate the cells that make collagen (dermal fibroblasts) in cell culture (in vitro).  In addition, the team has found that fucoidan is able to inhibit the actual breakdown of collagen (by producing interleukin-1β , effectively inhibiting gelatinase A secretion and stromeylsin induction, which normally break down collagen) in cell culture (in vitro).  Fucoidan also increases the rates in which matrix metalloproteinases associate with their inhibitors…and yes, if you are thinking that this sounds like Patricia Wexler’s skin care line, which attempts to preserve collagen by preventing collagen breakdown with matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors, you would be correct!  

Unfortunately, these findings are limited to cell culture and have not been applied to any clinical studies as of yet (as least not any that I have been able to find!)  With that said, brown algae (and fucoidan extract) may be a promising ingredient in the future, depending on what future research studies demonstrate.

 

Salicyclic Acid to Improve the Absorption of Other Ingredients

 

Salicyclic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid, is commonly found in cleansers and exfoliators.  It is lipid-soluble (i.e., oil-soluble).  According to Dr. Brannon,  a family-practice physician with a specialty in Dermatology, this means that beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the pores better than many other ingredients.  Salicyclic acid has also reported to improve signs of aging including wrinkling, roughness, and mottled pigmentation of photodamaged skin with at least 6 months of daily application.

According to DermNetNZ, salicylic acid works by penetrating into the skin and softening keratin, a protein that forms part of the skin structure. This helps to loosen dry scaly skin, increasing cell turnover and effectively renewing the skin.   In conjunction with ascorbyl palmitate, glucosamine, and brown algae, salicyclic acid may help the other ingredients penetrate the skin better, increasing their efficacy.  

 

Personal Use and Opinions

 

I tend to break out or get contact dermatitis when I try a lot of different products, so I got a family member to try the entire Aveda Enbrightenment Skin Care line for a month.  She is in her mid-sixties and naturally beautiful, but the products really helped her skin look luminous, glowing, and more even.  She is very happy with the results, and loves it so much, I can’t get her to switch back to a daytime moisturizer with SPF (not good)!   However, while she uses the cleanser, masque (bi-weekly), and toner at night, with the advice of her dermatologist, she still uses a retinol treatment (Green Cream Level 6 ($42.95, Amazon.com)), and then the Aveda Enbrightenment nighttime moisturizer.

Product Rating

 

Product Rating: 7/10. (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 2.5/3 – concentrations of active ingredients not specified.  New technology: 3/3 – has more scientific studies backing its ingredients than other organic or natural skin care products.   Value for the money: 1.5/3 – rather expensive.  Sunscreen: 0/1).

Product Review: Vitaphenol Cellustructure Rejuvenating Serum and Skin Care Collection

If your skin is too sensitive for retinol or AHAs, or if you simply have to try the latest and greatest, you might very well like the Vitaphenol Skin Care Collection.  Created by Avidas Pharmaceuticals, the Vitaphenol line features a unique combination of some very potent antioxidants (mangosteen, pomegranate, green tea, white tea) to fight free-radical induced aging, plus the Vitaphenol Cellustructure Rejuvenating Serum ($195.00, Vitaphenol.com) includes a combination of human growth factor TGF-Beta-1 and a stabilized L-ascorbic acid (7.5%) to increase collagen production.  According to a 2006 study in Dermatological Surgery, this exact combination of human growth factor TGF-Beta-1 and 7.5% L-ascorbic acid improved physician-assessed wrinkle scores by an average of 21.7% in 27 of 31 blinded subjects.  Although the Vitaphenol Skin Care Collection was developed by Dr. Michael Goldman, and Dr. Goldman was also an author of the publication, the study notes that the physicians were “blinded” so as not to know which patients received treatment and which did not. 

Growth Factors:  Effective Without a Transdermal Delivery System?

Growth factors in general present an interesting question for the dermatological community.  TGF-beta-1, a profibrotic cytokine, is currently found in both TNS and the Vitaphenol Skin Care Collection.  In a number of wound studies, including this 1997 Nature article,  TGF-beta-1 has been associated with collagen synthesis, increase tensile wound strength, stimulate granulation tissue formation, increase the thickness of regenerated dermal tissue, and to stabilize the dermoepidermal juncture.  However, these are wound studies, where the top layer of skin (the stratum corneum) is abraded.  As Dr. Douglas Kligman, M.D. Ph.D. points out in a 2007 letter in Dermatologic Surgery, arguments that TGF-Beta-1 and other growth factors stimulate collagen growth would be strengthened by the presence of evidence that growth factors are able to penetrate the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin) and thereby affect the dermis, where collagen fibers are produced.  Current methods in development to deliver growth factors to the dermis are iontophoresis, microporation, phonophoresis, and liposomal delivery systems, but until these methods are mainstream in skin care, the mechanism by which topically-applied TGF-Beta-1 (and other growth factors) are able to stimulate collagen production in intact skin is unknown. 

Other Ingredients = Excellent

Of course, even without the inclusion of TGF-Beta-1, the Vitaphenol Skin Care Collection provides some well-established ingredients.  Stabilized 7.5% L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) on its own has been shown to stimulate collagen production in numerous studies, including this article from PNAS.  The other antioxidants in the Vitaphenol Skin Care Collection are also phenomenal: mangosteen, pomegranate, green tea, and white tea.   While mangosteen has been associated in a large number of recent studies with the potent antioxidant activity (due to its high content of xanthones), anti-inflammatory activity, and anti-carcinogenic activity like other popular antioxidants in skin care, this is the first line I have encountered featuring the ingredient.

Personal Use and Opinions

After one month use of the line, my favorite product is the Vitaphenol Cellustructure Rejuvenating Serum ($195.00, available from selected physicians’ offices), which is the only product in the line to feature both TGF-beta-1 and the full 7.5% L-ascorbic acid.  The product is lightweight under sunscreen for day, locks in moisture well (due to its high inclusion of dimethicone and dimethicone cross-polymer), and left my skin feeling soft.  In a study comparing Vitaphenol Cellustructure Rejuvenating Serum ($195.00 for 1.0 oz) to the popular similar growth factor-containing Skinmedica TNS Skin Recovery Complex ($98.50 for 0.63 oz, Amazon.com), subjects preferred Vitaphenol Cellustructure Rejuvenating Serum over TNS, mainly due to the unpleasant smell of TNS.  In addition, 65% of the patients said they like the way Vitaphenol Cellustructure Rejuvenating Serum felt on their skin vs 47% for TNS.  My only qualms with the product are the price (a bit steep) and the fact that the growth factors are not delivered with a transdermal delivery system.

At any rate, a solid product.  I give it a solid 7.5/10. (High concentration of ingredients proven in peer-reviewed studies:  3/3.  New technology or formulation: 2/3, with a deduction for no transdermal delivery system.  Price: 1.5/3.  Expensive!  Sunscreen: 1/1, for it is available in the day lotion).

Exciting New Ingredient: Methyl Dihydroxybenzoate

A quick note before I begin about MDHB: I am really very sorry about not writing for so long.  I apologize if I have disappointed my readers!  I finished my first Basic Science Class, Anatomy, with a final on October 13, and am now ready to invest more time back in my website (my next exam, in Cell Biology, is November 3).  I am still learning to balance schoolwork with other responsibilities, so thank you very much for being patient and understanding with me. Now onto MDHB!   -Nicki

Methyl dihydroxybenzoate is the latest ingredient from pharmaceutical powerhouse Allergan.  Released in Vivité Vibrance Therapy ($95.00, Amazon.com; MSRP $115.00), methyl dihydroxybenzoate reduces hyperpigmentation by interfering with the actual production of melanin (skin pigment).  This is unique because current popular treatments kojic acid, arbutin and hydroquinone work by interfering with the activity of tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme for the biosynthesis of melanin in epidermal melanocytes, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s text Cosmetic Dermatology.  In addition, also according to the text, vitamin E as alpha-tocopheryl ferulate may also prevent hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosine hydroxylase activity in an indirect manner.

So how effective is stopping hyperpigmentation at the end (with actual melanin production) versus ceasing it towards the beginning (with tyrosinase inhibitors)?   According to reports from Allergan, results with Vivité Vibrance Therapy are similar to those from using a 4 percent hydroquinone solution (the highest concentration of hydroquinone available without a prescription).  In  a company-sponsored eight-week study, two sets of women put Vibrance Therapy on one side of their faces and 4% hydroquinone on the other.  In one group, effects with Vivité Vibrance Therapy actually surpassed those of 4% hydroquinone, with 70 percent reduction in hyperpigmentation versus hydroquinone’s 63 percent; in the other group, there was a 62 percent reduction for both.

So should you switch from hydroquinone to Vivité Vibrance Therapy?   That depends.  If you alarmed about hydroquinone use due to reports that large oral doses induce cancer in rats, a 2006 review in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, Dr. Jacob Levitt, M.D. reports that topical applications of hydroquinone in standard product concentrations are not in fact carcinogenic to humans.  So that’s not really a reason to switch.  If, on the other hand, you are a darker-skinned individual and have concerns over the development of ochronosis (which has been linked to hydroquinone use), then you may want to try Vivité Vibrance Therapy.  Of course, always speak to your dermatologist first.

Product Review: Neutrogena Age Restorative Hydrating Cream

Neutrogena (a brand of powerhouse Johnson and Johnson) has come up with some fabulous formulations with revolutionary ingredients through the years (their Healthy Skin, for one, is one of my all-time favorite products).  So when I saw ads for the new Neutrogena Age Restorative Hydrating Cream ($14.99, Amazon.com), I was intrigued.

Unfortunately, the only new ingredient in Neutrogena Age Restorative Hydrating Cream is L-carnitine.  According to this independent 2003 study, carnitine may help to prevent tissue necrosis (death) and to slow the progressive pathway after skin is burned.  However, the study was conducted on the skin of rats in vitro, so it is a bit of a stretch to just assume that carnitine has similar restorative effects on human skin in vivo.  In addition, although several studies have demonstrated that carnitine deficiencies result in low levels of carnitine in skin fibroblasts, there is no evidence (at least not that I could find) to support that low carnitine levels in fibroblasts make skin age faster or appear more damaged.  Nor could I find evidence that applying carnitine to the skin improves skin appearance or cellular renewal rates.

The other ingredients in Neutrogena Age Restorative Hydrating Cream are primarily your standard hydrators with a silicone base.  I am pretty disappointed in this product, and I hope that Neutrogena returns to introducing truly effective new ingredients soon.  Product rating: 3/10.  (New technology: 1/3.  High concentration of effective ingredients: 1/3.  Value for the money: 1/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1).

Product Ingredients:  Water, Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Trisiloxane, Carnitine, PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate, Glycerin, BHT, Polyacrylamide, Laureth-7, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Carbomer, Zinc Gluconate, Potassium Sorbate, Copper Gluconate, Sodium PCA, Urea, Magnesium Aspartate, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Polyquaternium-5, Laureth-23, Laureth-4, Sodium Hyaluronate, Trehalose, Triacetin, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, Citric Acid, Benzoic Acid, Disodium EDTA, DMDM Hydantoin, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance.

Does It Work?: Secret Clinical Strength Anti-Perspirant

Dermatological medicine has hit over-the-counter once more: aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex GLY, a clinical-grade ingredient found in prescription deodorant/anti-perspirant formulations, is now sold in Secret Clinical Strength Deodorant/Anti-Perspirant ($8.99, Amazon.com).  The ingredient is available in 20% anhydrous concentration in the product, which is lower than in prescription-grade formulations, and combined with conditioning ingredients to be less irritating than their clinically recommended counterparts.

As with other aluminum-based deodorants, the aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex GLY in Secret Clinical Strength Deodorant/Anti-Perspirant works in two ways:  one, its capsules clog pores (preventing moisture release) and two, it absorbs moisture from non-clogged pores (hence preventing malodorous-ness, as bacteria breakdown sweat and release a scent).  The net result?  Dryness. 

As with many skin care ingredients, there has been concerned raised on the web as to the safety of aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex GLY.  In this case, it is due to the fact that the metal, aluminum, has been identified as a neurotoxin in this 1989 study in Neuroscience and Biobehavioral Reviews, amongst others.  However, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex itself has not been found in any clinical studies to be correlated with a higher incidence of any disease, at least not in any studies I could find.  I will keep you posted if any arise to my knowledge.

When applied at night, Secret Clinical Strength Anti-Perspirant keeps you dry all throughout the day, and I highly recommend it to anyone who suffers from heavy perspiration.  I’d definitely give it a try!  Product rating: 8/9.  (High concentration of active ingredients: 3/3.  New technology: 3/3.  Value for the money: 2/3 (some deodorants carry aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex GLY and are cheaper, but designed for men, like Mitchum).  Sunscreen: N/A).

Product Review: Patricia Wexler Intensive 3-in-1 Day Cream SPF 30

The newest from Bath and Body Works’ skin care phenom is the Dr. Patricia Wexler 3-in-1 Day Cream SPF 30 ($42.50, BathAndBodyWorks.com).  The cream features three different ingredients to strengthen the skin (Niacyl), inhibit the activity of harmful matrix metalloproteinases that degrade collagen (MMP’s), and BVOSC, a new form of vitamin C that acts as an antioxidant.  As an added bonus, the cream features a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 that makes it great as a stand-alone morning cream.

The research behind MMPi’s has been validated, and Dr. Wexler’s line is especially great in that it features MMPi technology to inhibit MMP’s and ultimately preserve collagen.  According to Dr. Wexler, there are several substances that act as MMP inhibitors (MMPis): epigallocatechin-3-gallate (a derivative of green tea), retinoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (an omega-3 fatty acid), beta-carotene, DHEA (though this is controversial), polysaccharides, vitamin E, and vitamin C, and flavonoids. Research has shown all of these inhibit MMPs to some degree, but select products in Wexler’s line has been shown to inhibit MMP activity to a higher degree: in skin cells by more than 80%.  That makes me, for one, a fan of Wexler’s MMPi technology.

Unfortunately, the research behind Niacyl and BVOSC is even less substantiated.  While Niacyl is a derivative of niacin (vitamin B3), which has been shown to improve skin tone, hydration, and firmness with continued use over time as niacinamide, whether or not these same effects are demonstrated with the branded Niacyl remains to be seen.  Furthermore, BVOSC is a form of vitamin C exclusive again to Dr. Wexler’s products.  And while topically-applied vitamin C reduces the appearance of sunspots, preserves collagen, and increases the protection of sunscreen in some forms, it again remains to be seen whether or not BVOSC is as effective as vitamin C as ascorbic acid or ascorbyl palmitate.

As a result, I like Dr. Patricia Wexler 3-in-1 Day Cream SPF 30 for its inclusion of MMPis and sunscreen, but can’t say that I love the Niacyl or BVOSC, because there isn’t enough research substantiating it.  At any rate, it’s a solid product that should preserve collagen and hence skin firmness with continued use over time.  I give it a solid 8/10. (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3/3.  Research-backed ingredients: 2/3.  Value for the money: 2/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1).

Product Review: Skyn Iceland Arctic Brightening Serum

Skyn Iceland Arctic Brightening Serum ($65.00, Amazon.com) promises to act “like a time machine for your skin, helping to reverse the progression of stress-related damage…with adaptogen technology.”  Since an adaptogen is merely a substance that helps the body rejuvenate itself after stress, many skin care products with active rejuvenating ingredients (antioxidants, chamomile, aloe, and the like) could be counted as having “adaptogen technology.”

So then what’s the secret behind Skyn Iceland Arctic Brightening Serum?  The key ingredients are Arctic Root, Siberian Ginseng, Maral Root, and Black Tea.  Arctic Root is another name for the herb Rhodiola Rosea.  Although research on skin is limited, Rhodiola Rosea has been documented for years as to having cellular energy renewal properties, as mentioned in Life Extension Magazine. Siberian Ginseng has been noted in Immunopharmacology and Immunotoxicity for inhibiting the inflammation of mast cells in vitro, which is promising for inflamed or reddened skin.  Finally,  maral root is long established in Russia when used orally as a natural antioxidant, adaptogen (i.e., post-stress recovery aid), and tonic.  Its use in skin care is not as well-established, and few reputable studies could be found.

My favorite ingredients in Skyn Iceland Arctic Brightening Serum, though, are actually the retinyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E), and ascorbyl palmitate (vitamin C), which have documented, well-established effects against fine lines and wrinkles and in favor of cellular renewal.

Worth a try, buy, or a sigh? I’d give this one a big fat “try.”  Although there are many key ingredients, the most well-researched ingredients are towards the middle of the ingredients list, indicating that they are not in particularly high concentration.  Skyn Iceland Arctic Brightening Serum does, however, get a big fat thumbs-up for its unique and new formulation.  Who knows?  Maybe Arctic Root, Siberian Ginseng, and Black Tea are the anti-aging ingredients of the future.  Until research matches the hype, though, I’m sticking to my usual routine.  Product rating:  7/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 2/3.  Unique formulation: 3/3.  Value for the money: 2/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1).