Spotlight On: Bearberry

I am sorry for not writing for a few days…I took a few days off from this and my day job ( ), and now I feel better, relaxed, rejuvenated, and ready to talk skin care!

With that said, an exciting new ingredient for hyperpigmentation is bearberry, derived from a type of dwarf shrub rumored to be enjoyed by bears (hence, I suppose, the Yogi-licious name.)  Humans (particularly those with derm licenses) are currently developing a taste for bearberry as well: In a 2008 study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, certain active compounds found in bearberry, including arbutin, aloesin, flavonoids, hesperidin, and polyphenols, inhibit melanogenesis without melanocytotoxicity.  The means of inhibition was varied, indicating that several bearberry successfully stops age spots from forming in several different ways.  Promising!

A separate 2008 study found that bearberry lightened hyperpigmentation up to 70 percent, whereas the industry standard hydroquinone was effective in 78 percent of cases.  However, due to incessant reports of irritation from hydroquinone use, as well as possible ochronosis development, bearberry holds a great deal of promise for those with sensitive or darker skin.  In addition, bearberry has also been found to have antibacterial and antioxidant activity.

Due to its recent development as a whole ingredient (rather than just its extracts), bearberry found in very few products, including Amazonia Skin Balancing Cleanser ($18.00, Amazon.com).

Here’s to this exciting new ingredient!