Product Review: Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough Facial Lifting and Firming Serum vs. Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel

As the weather turns colder as we approach November, many women (myself included) start to look for hydrating serums. Two popular choices currently on the market are Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough Facial Lifting and Firming Serum ($38.00, Amazon.com) and Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel ($45.00, Amazon.com). Since the two products both claim to be hydrators with anti-aging effects, choosing one is not an easy task, but after testing each and analyzing the ingredients, I made the switch from Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel to Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough Facial Lifting and Firming Serum.

What Do the Ingredients in Philosophy’s When the Hope is Not Enough Serum Do?

The Hope is Not Enough serum is an outstanding product, containing a multitude of hydrating ingredients, soy protein, amino acid peptides, a potent antioxidant complex and anti-irritant ingredients. The hydrating components include higher molecular weight alcohols, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, and lecithin. Hydrolyzed soy protein and palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (the latter in concentrations between 2-8%) have been found to individually provide increased collagen synthesis and natural production of hyaluronic acid in the skin. The combination of the two ingredients should have the same, and most likely stronger, effects. (No scientific studies to date have shown the effect of combining soy protein and palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 in the skin.) The product also contains an exciting combination of network antioxidants glutathione and vitamin C-E complex (Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate). According to Dr. Leslie Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, network antioxidants glutathione, vitamin C, vitamin E, lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10 have been found to work synergistically to enhance the antioxidant power of each ingredient. To date, the efficacy of network antioxidants versus single potent antioxidants (like coffee berry or green tea) has not been measured. However, in the fight against age-inducing free radicals, it is safe to say that this or any product with network antioxidants is extremely competitive in today’s skin care market. The product rounds itself out with soothing ingredients: hydrolyzed soy protein, allantoin, and aloe barbadensis leaf juice.

What Do the Ingredients in Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel Do?

Surprisingly, the main ingredient in Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel is not vitamin B5, but sodium hyaluronate. Hyaluronic acid is naturally synthesized in the skin; when sodium hyaluronate (the form used for its greater chemical stability) is applied topically, it is an excellent water-binding agent that is effective in both high and low humidity conditions. In addition, the product contains pantothenoic acid, or vitamin B5. According to Paula Begoun, the “Cosmetics Cop,” pantothenoic acid has been shown to be effective for hydration and wound healing. Unfortunately, Skinceuticals’ note that the Hydrating B5 Gel “is recommended for use with vitamin C products” is unfounded, as no published scientific studies to date show that vitamin B5 increases vitamin C absorption or performance in the skin. Begoun further points out, “The claim is that this product is essential for use with vitamin C products [is] confusing! Does that mean that L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) isn’t the big deal, but that you need to layer products to get the miracle results?” In essence, by layering the Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Serum with a potent antioxidant serum, the sum of ingredients resembles Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough Facial Lifting and Firming Serum.

So should I choose Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough?

Most likely, yes, but one caveat: Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough Facial Lifting and Firming Serum contains fragrance, vitamin C and E, and also a higher number of ingredients, all of which may trigger sensory irritation in some patients with sensitive skin. A recommendation is to patch test the product at a local Philosophy retailer, such as Sephora.

Overall, Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough Facial Lifting and Firming Serum is an excellent product with many potent anti-agers, and is my personal top choice amongst hydrating serums right now. Rating: 10/10. However, if you have sensitive skin, use other anti-aging treatments and are just looking for an excellent hydrating serum, Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel is an excellent buy as well. Rating: 8.5/10.

Ingredients in Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough Facial Lifting and Firming Serum

Water (aqua), Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Pentylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, PEG 7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 3, Glutathione, Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate, Larrea Divaricata Extract (chapparel), Sodium Hyaluronate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Allantoin, Carbomer, Lecithin, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Methylbromo Glutaronitrile, Fragrance (parfum), Tetrasodium EDTA

Ingredients in Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel

Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pantothenic Acid, Phenoxyethanol