Tretinoin, Retinol, and Retinyl Palmitate: The Key to Anti-Aging Success?
Photo: Tretinoin treatments, courtesy Drugs.com.
According to Dr. David E. Bank, director of the Center for Dermatology, Cosmetic & Laser Surgery, researchers discovered the anti-aging properties of Retin-A, a prescription topical treatment containing a derivative of vitamin A, in 1985, when it was first used as an acne treatment. Patients reported decrease in the appearance of wrinkles and smoother skin, in addition to a reduction in acne.
The active ingredient in Retin-A, tretinoin (brand name Renova), is the only chemical to date to receive FDA approval for anti-aging and anti-sun damage properties. According to research by Fisher et. al cited by Dr. Leslie Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, retinoids are effective in preventing and treating the collagen loss caused by photodamage. UV exposure decreases collagen types I and III with 24 hours, but treatment of the skin with all-trans retinoic acid prevents the loss of these types of collagen synthesis. In addition, Fisher et. al demonstrated that application of tretinoin inhibits the induction of matrix metalloproteinase genes (more here), which are in part responsiblefor collagen degradation.
Side effects of retinol include skin irritation, desquamation, and redness. In addition, use of vitamin A derivatives has been associated with birth defects, and so it is advisable for women who are pregnant, breast-feeding, or those who may become pregnant to avoid use of tretinoin, retinol, or retinyl palmitate. It is further notable that patients with sensitive skin should use lower concentrations of tretinoin (0.025% rather than 0.1%) or, alternatively, lower concentrations of different metabolites of vitamin A, namely retinol or retinyl palmitate. According to Dr. Baumann, retinol and retinyl palmitate should be present in concentrations of at least 0.04% to 0.07% and packaged properly (to avoid oxidation) in order to be effective, as they are in Neutrogena Healthy Skin with SPF 20 ($19.99, Drugstore.com) and Roc Retinol Actif-pur ($16.99, Drugstore.com).
So how are retinol and retinyl palmitate related to the proven-effective tretinoin? According to Dr. Baumann, retinol is classified as a cosmetic rather than a drug because it must first be converted to retinaldehyde, and then all-trans retinoic acid within the skin in order to be effective. In general, retinol is considered to be about 20 times less potent than retinoic acid, and thus higher concentrations of retinol need to be used to achieve similar efficacy to all-trans retinoic acid (i.e., 0.04% or 0.07% versus 0.025%). However, although retinol needs to be present in higher quantities than tretinoin in order to be effective, patients typically experience lower levels of irritation using retinol products. Similarly, retinyl palmitate is a combination of pure retinol and palmitic acid (a substance typically used in cosmetics as a cleansing agent), and so it too must be converted to retinaldehyde and then all-trans retinoic acid within the skin in order to be effective. However, when present in sufficiently high concentrations, retinyl palmitate displays results similar to that of retinol. One caveat: based on information from Dr. Baumann’s site, make-up products with retinol will expire approximately one month after opening, so use accordingly.
Tretinoin itself is available in five prescription formulas: Retin-A Micro (Johnson & Johnson), Renova (Johnson & Johnson), Avita, Differin (Galderma), and Tazorac (Allergan). According to Dr. Bank, Retin-A Micro uses microsphere technology to allow a more sustained release of tretinoin over time. Some patients may find Retin-A Micro drying, in which case Renova, a product with tretinoin delivered in a mineral-oil base, may be recommended. A third option, Avita, is considered to be less irritating than Retin-A Micro, but without the mineral-oil base that can stimulate acne in some patients. The fourth option, Differin, contains a different chemical, adapalene, and is considered to make skin less photo-sensitive than other tretinoin products. Lastly, the newest product, Tazorac, contains tazarotene, and may be drying, but was approved by the FDA in 1997 for the treatment of acne. According to Dr. Baumann, a 2000 study by Kakita et. al found that the efficacy of tazarotene 0.1% gel is clinically comparable to 0.1% tretinoin [in Retin-A Micro] and 0.025% gel tretinoin[Renova] and adapalene 0.1% gel [Differin].
Vitamin-A derivatives are thereby considered to be excellent prevention and treatment against the signs of aging caused by ultraviolet rays. However, the effects of vitamin A derivatives on sensitive skin can be harsh. As such, provided one is not breast-feeding, pregnant, or may become pregnant, s/he should talk to their dermatologist about making the right choice of tretinoin, retinol, or retinyl palmitate for a part of their anti-aging routine on a daily basis.
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[...] The original Advanced Night Repair is extremely hydrating, soothing, and contains fair amounts of antioxidants and even a fair amount of sunscreen as a non-quantified bonus (in the form of octyl methoxycinnamate). The original Advanced Night Repair contains very high concentrations of ingredients that make it extremely hydrating: glycoprotein/polysaccharides (found naturally in the stabilizing intracellular matrix of the skin), dimethicone, pantethine (also called panthothenic acid or vitamin B5), sodium hyaluronate (an excellent natural moisturizing factor), lecithin, and squalane. The soothing ingredients include chamomile, which is disguised on the ingredients list in its proper name, matricaria (anthemis nobilis); bisabolol (derived from chamomile), and allantoin (an anti-irritant derived from uric acid). Antioxidants include vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate) and retinyl palmitate (a derivative of vitamin A which must be converted to retinaldehyde and then all-trans retinoic acid within the skin in order to be effective. However, when present in sufficiently high concentrations, retinyl palmitate displays anti-aging and antioxidant benefits similar to that of retinol.) [...]
Pingback by Product Review: Esteé Lauder Advanced Night Repair versus Advanced Night Repair Concentrate « FutureDerm’s Weblog | October 13, 2007 |
[...] over time, especially when used in a moisturizer with other proven anti-aging ingredients, such as retinoids or antioxidants. A great source of argireline and other anti-aging ingredients is DERMAdoctor [...]
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[...] alcohol interferes with the body’s processing of vitamin A (including retinoids). According to Stryker et. al, the consumption of alcohol leads to a reduced absorption of vitamin [...]
Pingback by The Most Misunderstood Skincare Ingredient: Alcohol « FutureDerm’s Weblog | October 15, 2007 |
[...] one antioxidant, this is an excellent product. It is a great source of over-the-counter strength retinoids, hydrating (”moisture-binding”) ingredients, and it comes in a very simple formulation [...]
Pingback by Product Review: Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative Capsules « FutureDerm’s Weblog | October 16, 2007 |
[...] contains antioxidants to fend off future aging. The product does not contain alpha hydroxy acids or retinoids, which dramatically reverse signs of aging, most likely because the product is targeted at older [...]
Pingback by Product Review: L’Oreal Age Perfect Pro-Calcium Day Cream for Very Mature Skin « FutureDerm’s Weblog | October 22, 2007 |
[...] 7-Day Hydrators, Barrier Repairing Ceramides, Wrinkle Relaxers, Multifruit Complex, and Retinyl Palmitate. In other words, according to Bliss, this stuff has it [...]
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[...] that copper peptide complexes stimulate even greater procollagen synthesis than potent anti-agers Retin-A (tretinoin) or ascorbic acid (vitamin C). Copper peptides specifically affect the synthesis of collagen 3, [...]
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[...] It has a lot of potent antioxidants, including vitamin C (in the form of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate), vitamin E, green tea (in high concentration) and soybean extract. Vitamin C and vitamin E are network antioxidants that synergistically enhance the power of one another. Green tea is one of the most potent antioxidant sources, depending on the source from which it is derived, and soybean extract has been shown to serve as an antioxidant that also increases collagen production over time. Paula’s Choice Antioxidant Serum also has retinol. Although, according to dermatologist Dr. Mary Lupo, retinol is 20 times weaker than the potency of prescription retinoids, retinol is still able to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, increase cell turnover rate, increase skin smoothness, and increase skin’s collagen production over time (sources here). [...]
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[...] 2007 issue of Allure magazine, five commonly recommended ingredients by leading dermatologists are retinoids/retinol, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), antioxidants, sunscreen, and hydroquinone. Below is a user’s [...]
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[...] general, retinol is considered to be about 20 times less potent than retinoic acid, and thus higher concentrations of retinol need to be used to achieve similar efficacy to all-trans [...]
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[...] with ingredients that are used in higher concentrations by prescription, such as hydroquinone, retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids, and beta hydroxy acids, or which have been established to be effective in [...]
Pingback by Commentary: Drugstore vs. Department Store Skin Care Products « FutureDerm.com | January 18, 2008 |
I’ve used Retin-A. It does help with wrinkles. However, use it sparringly – it can really dry out and irritate your skin!
[...] reduce the appearance of wrinkles somewhat. It has been found to have a firming efficacy similar to Retin-A, for a similar cost per package and no prescription. For a full review, please click [...]
Pingback by Skin Care at NYC Fashion Week 2008 - FutureDerm.com | February 7, 2008 |
My main criticism of this article is the statement “Tretinoin itself is available in five prescription formulas….” with Differin and Tazorac listed as 2 of them.
Differin and Tazorac do not contain Tretinoin.
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Retin-A (tretinoin) is a powerful acne treatment medication, derived from vitamin A. It can be used to treat mild to moderately severe acne, and is especially effective for those with comedonal acne.
Have been using Retin-A Micro for about 7 months and my skin is absolutely clear and fantastic looking. It took well over two months to finally see the results.
Now, I am clear and my scars are less noticeable.
Is Tretinoin can cause melasma? Some people that I know use facial lotion with an tretinoin ingredient are now suffering from dark spot on thier faces. If it not true, what cause melasma?
I’ve tried Retin-A Micro 0.1 and found it really harsh on my face. Perhaps I’m just not use to it. I’ve since gone down in concentration to 0.5 and found this to be more agreeable with my skin.
It has been very effective in controlling my acne. I have yet to experience it’s anti-aging effects (though I’m still hopeful). The only other down side for me is being an avid runner, I have to really be careful about training outdoors.
I use both Retin A Micro and Advance Night Repair. The Retin A is used at night and the Advance Night during the day. I find it hasn’t been irritating as the Advance Night hydrates really well. It makes up the dryness the Retin A leaves. The results are a bit quicker but not much. Instead of 2 weeks of results you can see it 12 days. So it shortens it by 2 days.
Retin-a is made by http://www.janssen-cilag.co.uk/ not johnson & johnson.
This is some really solid information here. RezV with Resveratrol is good for your skin and will help you look younger. It will also help you lose weight.
Is it possible to order retin-a micro