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Jack LaLanne is 92 years old in this picture.  Source: Static.Flickr.com

Now more than ever, women of all ages are concerned with looking younger.  And no wonder, with more information, products, and procedures available to them than ever before.  Despite all of the newfound technologies out there, however, an effective anti-aging routine doesn’t have to be complicated.  Here are 10 simple ways to look younger for far longer:

1. Relax. Stress triggers the release of hormones that cause inflammation in the skin, which worsens the effects of, and even causes, free radical production and more rapid aging, according to Dr. Nicholas Perricone, author of The Wrinkle Cure. It seems like common sense, but learning to relax and finding the time to do what makes you happiest in life will make you glow from the inside out. One of my favorite guides is Finding Your Own North Star by Martha Beck - it taught me to relax and enjoy the work-life balance like no other.

2. Sleep at least 7 hours per night. Sleep is when your skin restores and renews itself. To maximize your sleep efforts, take some advice from Dr. Ben Kaminsky, founder of B. Kamins skin care:

• Wear earplugs if necessary.
• Keep the room as dark as possible.
• Have a light, high-carb snack before bed, which increases serotonin production, which triggers calmness that can result in sounder sleep.
• Cut out caffeine.
• Take a warm bath before bedtime.
• Beware of medications that can disturb sleep (talk to your doctor).
• Spend time outside, especially in the morning, to keep body rhythms in harmony

3. Eat healthfully, and take a multivitamin. Although multivitamins certainly are not a complete substitute for healthy eating, taking a vitamin has been shown to have skin-beneficial effects, as demonstrated in a 2007 study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. In the study, it was shown that either an oral supplement with antioxidants lutein and zeaxanthin or the cream with the same ingredients improved skin elasticity, hydration, and protection against sun damage. However, the combination of oral and topical formulations boosted numbers the most — skin hydration by 60 percent and protection against sunburn by 20 percent. Therefore, by taking beneficial ingredients orally and applying them topically, you are getting the greatest effects for your skin.

To keep skin hydrated, Dr. Howard Murad recommends a supplement that contains all of the following elements:

• antioxidants
• fatty acid supplements, like fish oil, to encourage the body to make its own water-holding molecules
• glucosamine supplements, also to encourage the body to make its own water-holding molecules
• lecithin, and its building blocks phosphatidylcholine and choline to maintain cell walls

4. Protect your skin from the sun. Wear a sunscreen of at least SPF 30 everyday, and try to wear sun-protective clothing, including a hat.  The effectiveness of ultraviolet protective clothing is measured by Ultraviolet Protection Factor, or UPF. Unlike SPF, which quantifies only UVB protection, UPF incorporates both UVA and UVB (broad-spectrum) protection.  In general, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann, a UPF of 10 equals protection of about SPF 30.  Sunscreen pills, such as Murad Pomphenol Sunguard Supplement ($35.00, Amazon.com), have also been found to boost sun protection by as much as 25%.

5. Exfoliate weekly and moisturize daily. According to Dr. Patricia Wexler in this month’s Real Simple magazine, there are 3 steps to looking 15 years younger: “Exfoliate, moisturize, and apply sunscreen.  Each one takes five years off.”  Exfoliation, according to Dr. Ben Kamins, “works very effectively in the loosening of the dead cells of the stratum corneum and on acne-prone skin with plugged pores and dry, flaky skin.”  It also enables your other skin care products to work more effectively.  My personal favorite exfoliator is Peter Thomas Roth UnWrinkle Peel Pads ($45.00, Amazon.com), with the AHAs glycolic acid and lactic acid.

As for moisturization, according to B. Kamins, “For the skin to maintain an optimal barrier function, its hydration level is very important.”  According to Dr. Frederic Brandt in this month’s Real Simple magazine, even the most basic moisturizer hydrates, giving the skin a chance to rest.  By doing so, you help maintain collagen production over time, keeping your skin looking firmer (and you looking younger) for longer.  I like it.

6. Exercise for at least 30 minutes at least 5 days a week. According to the book Physiology of Exercise and Healthy Aging, exercise not only makes your body stronger, leaner, and more healthy, but also helps you look younger as well.  In a recent study, women who did aerobic exercise 30 minutes 5 days a week for a year were found to look 4 years younger than their non-exercising peers.  Not bad!

7. Visit your dermatologist. Although there are some incredible over-the-counter skin care treatments, your dermatologist can administer prescription-grade retinoids, more effective chemical peels, laser treatments, and unique therapies customized to your skin and your desires.

8. Use antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, and retinoids. Some of my favorite formulations include Revalé Skin (with super antioxidant coffee berry), Patricia Wexler MMPi Skin Regeneration Serum (with anti-inflammatory matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors) and Green Cream Level 6 (with 0.6% retinol).  For specific product recommendations, I highly recommend Dr. Leslie Baumann’s The Skin Type Solution, which recommends skin care products to each of sixteen different skin types.

9.  Drink enough water. According to Dr. Howard Murad , “Of all the raw materials you need, water is at the top of the list of the forty-odd other ones. ..however, [there is] no evidence to support the commonly known “eight by eight” rule that advises drinking eight eight-ounce glasses of water per day [for the skin]…[although] one study has shown that men who drank more than that had nearly half the risk of bladder cancer as those who drank half as much.”  Instead of eight glasses, try to drink water consistently throughout the day, and more after exercising or being in the heat.

10. Don’t smoke. Smoking has been found to be more responsible for aging the skin than sun damage (Baumann-cited, Daniel et. al., 1971). A recent German study also demonstrated that smoking is linked to acne, as about 40.8% of smokers exhibited acne, compared to 25.2% of non-smokers, amongst a population of 896 citizens.  Although “smoker’s mouth” and facial wrinkles are commonly noted, a 2007 study in the Archives of Dermatology found that smokers were more likely than non-smokers to exhibit deep body wrinkles as well.  Secondhand smoke puts you at a lesser, although still substantial, risk, so limit your time in smoky rooms as much as possible.

Other sources for great ideas

I was excited to read 50 Tips for Healthier Skin at Any Age on RNCentral.com recently.  Even if you already live a healthy lifestyle, I highly recommend reading the article and picking up a new idea or two to incorporate into your daily routine.

Also, keep checking back on FutureDerm.com for product reviews and new ingredient information! 

For the full story, please click here to go to the main site.

Occasionally, you run into a body lotion that just feels nice. That’s the case with Mario Russo All For One Body Lotion ($22.50, SalonMarioRusso.com).  Infused with seven known hydrators, this one feels light on the skin and leaves it hydrated and soft for hours.

Mario Russo All For One Body Lotion leaves a light floral scent on the skin, so you may not want to wear it with perfume.  However, after a shower or before bed, particularly under a cotton robe or nightgown, this lotion is great, and will leave your skin soft and hydrated.

With continued use of Mario Russo All For One Body Lotion, the olive oil in the product will protect the skin as an antioxidant, and soften the skin.  The other hydrators will also leave the skin more apt to repair itself; these hydrators include glycerin, cetearyl alcohol, panthenol, dimethicone, cyclomethicone, olive oil, and shea butter.

Overall, I give Mario Russo All For One Body Lotion a solid 8/10 - a great hydrating body lotion!  High concentration of proven ingredients:  2.5/3.  New technology or solid formulation: 3/3.  Value for the money:  2.5/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1.

As far as trace minerals in the skin go, you don’t get one much more abundant than zinc: the skin contains about 6% of all the zinc in the body, according to Joy Bauer, MS, RD, CDN and author of Food Cures.  In the skin, zinc is responsible for protecting cell membranes and maintaining skin’s collagen levels.  Dr. Howard Murad further sings zinc’s praises in The Murad Method: “Zinc is truly a workhorse ingredient…It protects the skin from UV light and other irritants and infection from bacteria and fungi…enhances the effects of vitamins A and E, and soothes irritation.”  In fact, patients with severe zinc deficiencies can develop redness and pustules, as well as small blisters, crusting, and flaking lesions on the scalp, genitalia, and around the mouth, according to Dr. Audrey Kunin, dermatologist and founder of DERMADoctor.com.  Kunin also notes that zinc deficiency may lead to hair loss.

According to Bauer, zinc is naturally found in all of the following sources:

• oysters
• lean beef
• crab
• ostrich
• pork tenderloin
• peanut butter
• wheat germ
• turkey
• veal
• pumpkin seeds
• chicken
• chickpeas (garbanzo beans)
• fat-free yogurt
• fortified whole grain cereals
• pine nuts
• cashews
• sunflower seeds
• lima beans
• lentils
• pecans
• cheese (fat-free, reduced-fat)
• fat-free milk
• almonds
• walnuts
• peanuts
• black-eyed peas (not these ones, hee hee)
• green peas

However, Bauer strongly advises not to take above 100% USDA daily values of zinc (15 mg per day).  According to Bauer, “Excess zinc can inhibit the body’s ability to absorb copper, a minor but necessary mineral…[High levels of zinc] can depress the immune system and block copper’s availability in the body.”  In fact, Bauer advises patients who ingest 80 mg of zinc/day (usually to treat macular degeneration) to also take 2 mg copper/day.

When applied topically, zinc has been shown to have significant antioxidant activity in this 2002 study in the International Journal of Dermatology, amongst others.  According to the study, there are two mechanisms by which zinc may provide antioxidant protection:  in the first, “zinc ions may replace redox active molecules, such as iron and copper, at critical sites in cell membranes and proteins; alternatively, zinc ions may induce the synthesis of metallothionein, sulfhydryl-rich proteins that protect against free radicals.”  At any rate, zinc appears to be an effective ingredient in skin care products.

All in all, zinc is a pretty exciting ingredient, whether ingested or applied topically!  Zinc is available orally in most multivitamins and the Murad Pure Skin Supplement ($39.50, Amazon.com), as well as the Murad Acne Spot Treatment ($12.00, Amazon.com).  As always, talk to your doctor when starting a new program. 

For today’s post, I am proud to have Dr. Jeanine B. Downie, a board-certified dermatologist, on board. Dr. Downie is the director of her own practice, image Dermatology P.C. in Montclair, N.J, with training in all aspects of dermatology, including cosmetic dermatology, laser and dermatologic surgery.

FutureDerm: What SPF do you recommend that your patients use every day?
Dr. Downie: An SPF 30 or higher

FutureDerm: I have read recently that daily use of a high SPF (over 50) can make the skin overly sensitive. Is this true? If so, why?
Dr. Downie: No, absolutely not true. It’s actually the contrary and no protection over time will make your skin more sensitive. Additionally, if you’re allergic, use a sunscreen that is hypoallergenic.

FutureDerm: How many skin cancer patients do you see each year?
Dr. Downie: In an average week, 20-30 patients and my Physician Assistant sees an additional 20-30 patients a week.

FutureDerm: What has been your most rewarding case?
Dr. Downie: When I was training at Mt. Sinai Medical Center, I had a patient that came in who was told she had dirt under her toe. I was immediately able to identify it as skin cancer. Even though it was a late diagnosis by the time she came to see me, she only lost her toe and not her life.

FutureDerm: What sun protection products are your favorite and why?
Dr. Downie: AVEENO, Neutrogena, MD Forte and Alyria are all great sunscreens and offer great protection in an SPF of 30 or higher.

Image source: Westcoastribbonsupply.com

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I must admit, most of the time, if the FDA approves an ingredient, I am reassured after reading studies and expert opinions that it is fine. However, I was recently surprised to find that sodium lauryl sulfate, a very common detergent added to cleansers largely for the bubbling effect, is in fact a known skin irritant. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology text, “[Sodium lauryl sulfate] is such a consistent irritator for skin with an impaired barrier that it is actually used in ‘challenge patch tests’ to evaluate the barrier function of skin…it strips the natural lipids from the skin, disrupting the barrier and rendering it more susceptible to external irritants.” In The DERMADoctor Skinstruction Manual, dermatologist Dr. Audrey Kunin further advises that sodium lauryl sulfate has been additionally blamed on “chapped lips and perioral dermatitis, a rash around the mouth.” For this reason, Kunin advises those with skin irritation around the mouth to use a toothpaste without sodium lauryl sulfate, like Squigle Enamel Saver Toothpaste ($8.00, Amazon.com).

In addition, sodium lauryl sulfate can also be damaging to the hair, as reiterated in this 1999 study amongst hairdressers. For this reason, shampoos not containing sodium lauryl sulfate or similar irritants are advised, like Phillip Kingsley Moisture Balancing Shampoo and Conditioner ($18.50 each, Amazon.com). After trying this sodium lauryl sulfate-free shampoo, my hair felt very clean and looked shiny, although it was more smooth and sleek than voluminous. If smooth and sleek is what you seek (haha), then this may be a good sodium lauryl sulfate-free formulation for you. (P.S.- Although this shampoo and conditioner do contain some other potential irritants, they appear to be lower than the concentrations listed below for potential irritation.)

According to the journal Contact Dermatitis, the following ingredients were said to display “similar” signs of irritation to 2% sodium lauryl sulfate:

• 5% sodium C12-15 pareth sulfate
• 5% sodium cocoyl isethionate
• 10% disodium laureth sulfosuccinate
• 10% sodium cocoamphoacetate
• 10% cocamide DEA
• 10% cocamidopropyl betaine
• 10% lauryl glucoside

For this reason, if you have sensitive skin or have noticed irritation from a skin care product recently, try an alternative without sodium lauryl sulfate or any of the above listed alternatives in lower concentrations. Hopefully it will be the solution!

In a new feature, FutureDerm.com will be featuring links to some of this week’s best beauty blogs on the web, so you don’t have to look for them. Let me know if you like it!  :-)  Here’s the first round:

The Beauty Brains tells you how to protect your hair from heat damage (particularly significant with all of the extra UV damage it will be getting this summer!)

15 Minute Beauty Fanatic reviews the Jane Iredale Frame of Mind cosmetics collection.  If you’re not familiar with Jane Iredale, her cosmetics all contain research-backed skin-beneficial ingredients.  I am a fan!

The Derm Blog asks what makes a face beautiful.  Apparently, beauty is subjective, but good skin care helps.  :-)  For more on the interesting subject, read on.

Beauty Addict tells you how to make the perfect wedding day survival kit.  A must-print-and-share article for any summer brides or bridesmaids!

Dr. Leslie Baumann tells you how to get all the skin care products you need for under $50 (LOVE IT!!!)

According to the advertisements, Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula ($12.99, Walgreens.com) will help to reverse signs of past sun damage like fine lines, discolorations, and sun spots, as well as protect against future damage.

The product claims to contain 2x the vitamin C of the usual Garnier Nutritioniste formulas.  Garnier Nutritioniste products seem to always use vitamin C in the form of ascorbyl glucoside, which has been found to be more stable than L-ascorbic acid at a wider range of pH and temperatures.   While it has been found that ascorbyl glucoside has the collagen-stimulating, antioxidant, skin-lightening effects of L-ascorbic acid, the only downside is that the exact concentration of ascorbyl glucoside in Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula is not given, whereas it is established in certain L-ascorbic acid formulations like Cellex-C contain 15% L-ascorbic acid.

Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula also contains magnesium.  Magnesium has been shown to improve barrier function recovery in the skin of mice, and the company claims that magnesium also “energizes and hydrates” the skin.

The last main ingredient, lycopene, I have mixed feelings about.  On the one hand, lycopene, the caroten that gives tomatoes its red pigment, has been reported by Dr. G. Todorov to be the best antioxidant among carotens, with at least twice the free-radical scavenging ability as ß-carotene. Lycopene also serves as a natural sunscreen, providing a UVB of about 3, and it is speculated that lycopene could improve cell-to-cell junctions, theoretically improving skin’s texture. A 2002 study by Offord et. al. further found that lycopene and vitamin E together, as in Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula, can suppress the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (collagen-digesting) mRNA.  Unfortunately, the use of lycopene at all is questionable at this time, as a 2005 study by Yeh et. al demonstrated that topical application of lycopene “enhances UVA-induced oxidative stress in [mouse] fibroblast (skin) cells, and…under UVA irradiation, lycopene may produce oxidative products that are responsible for the prooxidant effects.” Although this study was done on the mouse, based on these results and similar from Offord et. al., it does not seem advisable to use lycopene in skin care products at this time.

According to reviews of Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula, the product is light, non-greasy, and smells delightful.  Women largely report after a few weeks’ use that their skin feels softer and smoother.  However, the eradication of age spots may take a while, as blogger E. Harmon notes that she had not noticed a “huge difference in the tone or brightness” of her skin, although notes that the effect may occur “with continued use over time.”  I think it all depends on the amount of ascorbyl glucoside in the product, which hasn’t been reported.

Overall, I think Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula is a quality product, though it may not be as effective as products with a higher concentration of vitamin C, like Cellex-C.  Still, it should improve skin’s texture, provide sun protection, and may eradicate sun spots over time.  I give it a solid 7/10 (high concentration of proven ingredients:  1.5/3.  New technology: 1.5/3, for the as-of-yet questionable inclusion of lycopene.  Value for the money: 3/3.  Sunscreen: 1/1.)

Ingredients in Garnier Nutritioniste Anti Sun Damage Moisture Lotion SPF 28

Water; Isononyl Isononanote; Glycerin; Cyclohexasiloxane; Propylene Glycol; Ethylhexyl Palmitate; Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate; Butylene Glycol; Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate; Dimethicone; Nylon-66; Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer; Glyceryl Stearate; Behenyl Alcohol; Solanium Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract*; Ascorbyl Glucoside**; Tocopheryl Acetate; Actindia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Water; Rosa Canina Fruit Oil; Capryloyl Salicylic Acid; Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate; Caprylyl Glycol; Magnesium PCA***; Manganese PCA***; Mica; Sodium PCA***; Titanium Dioxide; Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Dimethyl Isosorbide; PEG-8 Laurate; Disodium EDTA; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; Octyldodecanol; Polycaprolactone; Sodium Citrate; Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate; Sodium Hydroxide; Xanthan Gum; Methylparaben; Propylparaben; Butylparaben; Fragrance; Linalool; Benzyl Salicylate; Limonene; Geraniol; Citral; *Lycopene; **Vitamin C; ***Magnesium

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Every once in a while, a skin care ingredient comes along that I am really excited about. That is the case with spin traps, also known as phenyl butyl nitrone. According to Dr. Cheryl Burgess’ Cosmetic Dermatology, spin traps are a ‘new’ form of antioxidant that have the ability to catch an electron as it spins out of control and actually returns it to its normal orbit before it can do any damage. In other words, catching a free radical before it is free to do damage! According to Cosmetic Dermatology, the protective abilities of spin traps comes from their modulation of proinflammatory cytokines.

Spin traps have been shown to prevent free radical induction in the substantia nigra (a portion of the brain) in rats, according to Neuroscience Letters. Numerous studies by Dr. J. Carney and his associates, including this 1996 study in Radiation Research, have shown that phenyl butyl nitrone has anti-inflammatory and age-reducing effects.

If you would like to try spin traps, they are available in the Your Best Face skin care line ($120-160, ybf-skincare.com, pictured above). Although I have not tried the line personally, it features firming peptides like palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 as well as spin traps (phenyl butyl nitrone), so the products should firm the skin, stimulate collagen production, and serve as unique antioxidants in the skin. If you are looking for a nighttime antioxidant treatment that features firming peptides, this may be a good fit for you!

Although I normally apply the excess skin care products from my face onto my hands, as I get older, I notice that I grow to like separate hand creams more and more all the time.  Enter Le Couvent Des Minimes Gardener’s Hand Healer ($5.00 for 0.8 oz, $25.00 for 2.6 oz, LeCouventdesMinimes.us) into my quest for the perfect hand cream.

The very rich cream is fortified with a blend of seven nourishing and hydrating ingredients (please click on the links for verifying research studies/texts): shea butter (hydrating), mimosa (restorative), chamomile (anti-inflammatory), marshmallow, calendula (antiseptic), lemon balm (antibacterial), rosemary (an antioxidant), and verbena (relaxing).   After I applied it, the cream felt thick on my hands, but not sticky.

I recommend using the product at night, for two reasons:  One, it doesn’t contain sunscreen, so you’re probably better off carrying around a hydrator with sunscreen like Neutrogena Norwegian Formula SPF 30 Hand Cream ($9.79, ) or Bath and Body Works True Spa Love Me Tender SPF 15 Hand Cream ($13.00, BathandBodyWorks.com).  Two, the lemon balm in the product offers a rather potent fragrance.  And while I personally adore the scent of lemons, it may clash with, say, your usual Chanel No. 5.

I love using this product under cotton gloves right before bed - I wake up to soft and restored hands.  Definitely a wonderful product, worth a shot after all the incidental and beach sun exposure your poor hands will be getting this summer!