roduct Review: Wexler MMpi 20 Skin Brightening and Pore Refining Serum & Daily Defense Anti-Oxidant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30
According to Dr. Patricia Wexler, M.D. on Vogue.TV, “You have to select your [skin] problems…and act to treat those problems.” That said, with Dr. Wexler’s new MMpi 20 Skin Brightening and Pore Refining Serum ($55.00, BathandBodyWorks.com) & Daily Defense Anti-Oxidant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30 ($29.50, BathandBodyWorks.com), expect to treat lackluster skin (increased brightness occurs with soy extract, acetyl glucosamine, vitamin C, and the serum’s Melaclear tyrosinase inhibitor), as well as prevent signs of future damage (with the patented Niacyl complex,as well as antioxidants and sunscreen).
MMpi 20 Skin Brightening and Pore Refining Serum
MMpi 20 Skin Brightening and Pore Refining Serum ($55.00, BathandBodyWorks.com) is a very solid product. My favorite ingredient in the formulation is Melaclear, a patented ingredient designed to treat hyperpigmentation by Sederma. (A sister product is called Melaslow). Like arbutin and hydroquinone, Melaclear works by inhibiting tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin production. Although a publicly available, non-company-affiliated study has not compared the efficacy of Melaclear to other hyperpigmentation treatments, my best hypothesis (and this is only a hypothesis!) would be that it has similar effectiveness to arbutin, and is most likely less effective than 4% hydroquinone.
Still, MMpi 20 Skin Brightening and Pore Refining Serum also contains N-acetyl glucosamine, the patented Niacyl complex, soybean extract, and new stable form of vitamin C to increase skin’s brightness. N-acetyl glucosamine has been established to make a statistically significant difference in hyperpigmentation, as reported in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology in 2009. In addition, the potent combination of N-acetyl glucosamine (NAG) and niacinamide was recently shown to reduce facial hyperpigmentation in Japanese and Caucasian subjects with facial hyperpigmentation in two double-blind, vehicle-controlled, split-face, left-right randomized clinical studies. It is likely that the patented Niacyl complex in this product has similar efficacy to the niacinamide used in the study, as niacinamide is simply the basic form of niacin. The soy extract also treats hyperpigmentation and brightens: in this 2000 study in the journal Dermatology that human trials demonstrate lightening of hyperpigmentation after use of realistic concentrations of soybean extract for just two weeks. Finally, the BVOSC vitamin C used in the product (tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate) has been proposed as a more stable form of vitamin C than the traditional L-ascorbic acid. Vitamin C runs the gamut in benefits - from decreased hyperpigmentation to increased antioxidant protection to increased collagen production - and BVOSC has been shown in a double-blind, half-face study in Dermatologic Surgery to provide statistically significant benefits. In other words, this product is a huge thumbs-up for treating hyperpigmentation.
So what’s the problem with MMpi 20 Skin Brightening and Pore Refining Serum? My only issue is with this or any other product that says “pore-refining.” From what I have learned from dermatologists, it is not possible to change the size of your pores (hence, I guess why the product doesn’t say “pore-reducing.”) At any rate, please do not use this or any other product expecting to see a change in the size of your pores. While certain products may clean out your pores to make them appear smaller (try 2% salicyclic acid) and others may use alcohol to inflame the skin cells to make the pores appear smaller by contrast, nothing will actually reduce the size of your pores. Just a side note. 
Daily Defense Anti-Oxidant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30
My favorite ingredient in the Daily Defense Anti-Oxidant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30 ($29.50, BathandBodyWorks.com) is the antioxidant concentrate NDGA. Like Dr. Perricone consistently defines his products by inclusion of DMAE, Dr. Wexler appears to be the only dermatologist (at least that I know of) that is including NGDA in her products. According to the journal Mutation Research, NGDA has potent antioxidant, antimutagenic, and anticarcinogenic activity. NGDA exhibits its antioxidant activity by lipooxygenase inhibition, in a similar fashion to the antioxidant quercetin. Unfortunately, it has been reported that some patients develop contact dermatitis after use of NGDA, so talk to your dermatologist to ensure your skin’s tolerance of the ingredient. (Perhaps this is why the product includes Symcalmin, a patented ingredient to treat inflammation of the skin).
Wexler Daily Defense Anti-Oxidant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30 also contains other antioxidants (apple extract for one), soy extract, and the Niacyl complex. My only wish for the product was that it contained more photostable forms of sunscreen: while Helioplex (avobenzone and oxybenzone) and Mexoryl SX/XL are touted by this excellent 2007 reviewfor their photostability, it is unknown at this time how the combination of sunscreens in this product compare (i.e., homosalate 8.0%, octinoxate 7.0%, octisalate 6.0%, oxybenzone 6.0%, and titanium dioxide 1.0%). Still, it is undoubtedly true that the product does contain reasonable sun protection.
Overall Opinions
I’m a huge fan of Dr. Wexler, and I think that these two products are a testament to her knowledge, training, and willingness to incorporate new technology and rarely-used ingredients into effective and original formulations. I give these very high marks! Product Rating (Serum): 8.5/10. (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 3/3. New formulation or technology: 3/3. Value for the money: 2.5/3. Sunscreen: 0/1.) Product Rating (Moisturizer): 9.0/10. (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 3/3. New formulation or technology: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 1/1).
Also, if you wish to order Wexler products, sign up for EBates.com and receive 3% cash back from your order! (Cash back is typically delivered as a check in 6-8 weeks. Please visitEBates.com for more info.)
Love-Renaissance Skin Care: New to the U.S…and New to My Skin Care Regimen!
Love-Renaissance is a beautiful store at the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center.
Recently, while on vacation in Hawaii, I came across a lovely skin care store calledLove-Renaissance. Established and quite popular in Japan, Love-Renaissance is relatively new to the American seaboard, having set up a U.S. shop in only Hawaii thus far. And while I visited many skin care stores and spas during my visit to Hawaii, I must say, this was by far my favorite find.
Love-Renaissance is not the typical skin care system you will see getting high marks on this website. For one, Love-Renaissance is significantly more expensive than most drugstore brands, and it has never been conclusive that there is a statistically significant difference between the performance of most department store and drugstore brands of skin care. Second, Love-Renaissance does not contain what are arguably the five most proven effective ingredients in anti-aging skin care today: sunscreen, retinoids, niacinamide, antioxidants, or alpha hydroxy acids. Lastly, proper use the complete Love-Renaissance system requires four steps: cleansing (a cleansing oil, $47.00-$57.00), moistening (a cleansing foam or soap, $33.00-$57.00), supplementing (with a serum-like product called milk, $57.00-$65.00), and protecting (moisturizing gel or cream $76.00-$95.00) – a multitude of steps some experts would say is excessive.
However, Love-Renaissance still manages to deliver high-performance results with its inclusion of very high concentrations of all-natural, but scientifically proven, ingredients. (The salesperson informed me that the main ingredients were included in concentrations up to 80%, but I could not find documentation online verifying this statement). Love-Renaissance has four separate lines, each concentrating on one specific ingredient: Verdi (olive leaf and royal jelly); Noe (olive leaf); Sakuyahime (cherry leaf extract); and Swaness (brown rice extract). The cherry leaf extract in Sakuyahime has been demonstrated in published scientific journals to have anti-oxidant and anti-carcinogenic activity, with the additional inclusion of vitamin C, which helps to fight hyperpigmentation by controlling melanin production. The brown rice extract in the Swaness line has been shown to be anticarcinogenic and anti-inflammatory, with the potential to also inhibit portions of the free radical pathwaythat lead to oxidative damage. Lastly, olive leaf (in Verdi and Noe) has perhaps the least independent scientifically published data behind it, with one study demonstrating its antiviral activity.
I personally have been using the Sakuyahime line for the past three weeks, and I can honestly say my skin looks smoother and feels softer. However, I am only using the entire system at night, as I will not forgo my ultra-effective morning routine (Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, (or 100) OR ), at least until conclusive published research shows there are more effective products for ultimate sun protection.
And while I miss my nighttime prescription retinoid and Revale Skin’s coffeeberry moisturizer, for a short while, I am pleased with the results of Love-Renaissance and will continue to use it. I look at it like my skin is still on vacation: maybe not the most productive use of my time, but definitely relaxing and soothing…and I am definitely enjoying the luxurious pampering experience! :-)
With that said, I really love these products. To order, please see information below. Product Rating: 7.0/10. High concentration of proven ingredients: 2.5/3. New technology or unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 1.5/3. Sunscreen: 0/1.
Take care! :-)
Ordering information for Love-Renaissance:
2301 Kalakaua Avenue, Honolulu HI 96815
Tel: 808.923.0991
http://www.love-renaissance.com
How Do I Use a Retinoid and AHAs/BHAs Together?
Photo Credits: Skin Care Tips Originally uploaded by suzaned (flickr)
Recently, it has been found that using retinoids and an AHA (like glycolic acid) or BHA (like salicyclic acid) diminishes the effectiveness of both ingredients. So how can a patient still benefit from the potent anti-aging effects of each ingredient? To find the answer, I consulted with the site of Dr. Leslie Baumann, M.D., a practicing dermatologist and the co-founder and chief of the Cosmetic Dermatology department at the University of Miami School of Medicine. According to Dr. Baumann:
“Your question about order is a great one. Retinoids should not be mixed with BHA (i.e., salicylic acid) or AHA (i.e,. glycolic acid) because the BHA and AHA can inactivate the retinoid. Always use retinoids at night because the sun can also make the retinoid less effective.”
Dr. Baumann then proposes a skin care regime in which AHA/BHA products are used exclusively in the morning under a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen, while retinoids are used exclusively at night.
Of course, as would be expected from Dr. Baumann, this makes perfect sense.
Daytime AHA/BHA Products
Please note that AHA/BHA do make your skin more sensitive to the sun, and hence more susceptible to UV damage. With that said, always use AHA/BHA under a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen with SPF of at least 15 (I prefer 50+ myself), reapply frequently, and practice sun avoidance between 10 AM and 4 PM.
Some AHA or BHA products I like include (with 10% of the AHA glycolic acid, $35.00, ); ($35.00, DermaDoctor.com); and Paula’s Choice Exfoliating 2% BHA Lotion ($18.95, Paula’s Choice.com).
For more on AHA, please click here; for more on BHA, please click here.
Nighttime Retinol Products
Some nighttime retinol products to try include (with approximately 0.025% retinol, if I had to take an educated guess; $13.99, ); (with 0.3% retinol, $35.00, ); Green Cream Level 6 (with 0.6% retinol, $43.00, Dermstore.com) and (with 1.0% retinol, $52.00, ).
Please note that the higher the concentration of retinol, the higher the risk of skin irritation. With that said, start with a small application every 2-3 nights, gently working up to nightly tolerance. And, of course, it is always best consult with your dermatologist before starting use of retinol or any other new skin care ingredient.
For more on the benefits of retinoids, please click here (Dr. Baumann’s blog).
Take care! J
Interview with Dermatologist Dr. Jeanine Downie, M.D. About Melasma
Recently I was honored with the privilege to interview Dr. Jeanine Downie, M.D., about the treatment and prevention of melasma. Although Dr. Downie is an expert in many realms of dermatology, she specializes in pigmentary disorders, and is particularly passionate about the topic, having been personally diagnosed with melasma in her early twenties.
Dr. Downie is a practicing board-certified dermatologist of Image Dermatology in Montclair, New Jersey; author of Beautiful Skin Of Color: A Comprehensive Guide for Asian, Olive and Dark Skin; as well as a professional lecturer, wife, and mother. Dr. Downie has been featured in numerous sectors of the public arena as well, including on The View, Good Morning America, The Rachael Ray Show, and In Style and O magazines, amongst many others. Thank you for taking the time to talk to FutureDerm.com, Dr. Downie!
Nicki Zevola: How common is melasma in your patients?
Dr. Jeanine Downie: Melasma is very common amongst patients, and I have seen numerous patients with it lately. One type I have seen a lot of recently is intense heat fluctuation melasma. [...]It is upsetting, how common melasma is amongst patients.
NZ: What can be done to prevent or eliminate melasma?
Dr. D: To prevent or eliminate melasma, don’t necessarily get off of hormonal contraceptives. Put sunscreen on, reapply every 2 hours, and watch heat. Patients don’t often consider how much heat aggravates melasma. Even waxing the upper lip can exacerbate the condition.
NZ: What can be done to treat melasma?
Dr. D.: Three major factors: sunscreen, Tri-Luma, and chemical peels/Fraxel.
To treat melasma, first use sunscreen. The prescription Tri-Luma is the only FDA-approved treatment for melasma. With the Tri-Luma, you may also wish to do chemical peels to help to even the skin out. Also, laser treatments like Fraxel are useful if the patient has had very deep-seated melasma for many years. In summary, sunscreen, treatment cream (with Tri-Luma being the best, but a cosmeceutical may be used) and chemical peels or Fraxel.
NZ: A lot of attention has been drawn to potential safety issues [i.e., ochronosis] with Tri-Luma, particularly for patients of darker skin tones. Has this been an issue for you in your practice?
Dr. D: My practice consists of approximately 60% white patients, 40% black/Latino/Asian, in that order. Regardless of race, I advise my patients to only put Tri-Luma on the dark patches themselves. I tell them not to put Tri-Luma all over the face, or else patches may evolve that look like a bull’s eye! Of course, these bull’s eye-like patches may not be a problem, but as a safety precaution, I do not advise putting Tri-Luma all over the face.
Recently, I was giving a lecture at the Cosmetic Boot Camp in Aspen, CO, where approximately 250 dermatologists, plastic surgeons, and facial plastic surgeons attended to learn about cosmetics. I happen to specialize in pigmentary disorders, especially melasma. And when a question about Tri-Luma was raised, I explained this: the tretinoin in Tri-Luma thickens collagen and elastin over time, and the tiny drop of steroid is balanced by the retinoid in the product. In addition, it has been proven that there is no problem with using Tri-Luma for an extended period of time. The product has been FDA approved for seven years.
NZ: Is there a difference between treatments for melasma, dark spots from acne scars, and sunspots?
Dr. D: Yes. For dark spots from acne, I advise use of fade creams, the laser treatments Fraxel or Lyra, and sunscreen. Sunspots are solar lentigines – I say these are like the ones that appear on Grandma’s hands – are best treated with the laser Gentle-Laze. Sunspots are an entirely different modality from melasma – don’t use Tri-Luma for sunspots! In fact, Tri-Luma doesn’t work swimmingly well for sunspots.
NZ: Melasma often develops during a woman’s pregnancy. Is there any way to prevent melasma from occurring during pregnancy?
Dr.D: In terms of being preventative during pregnancy, melasma can occur anywhere – even the arms – particularly if the patient has a family history. The patient must be very stringent about sun protection, must use sunscreen every 2 hours [for sunscreens that are permissible during pregnancy, please click here]. A patient can also receive peels all through her pregnancy, which can be helpful. However, I absolutely do not give Tri-Luma to pregnant or nursing women [due to tretinoin/retinol/vitamin A].
NZ: In summary, what is the best advice you can give to patients regarding melasma?
Dr. D: The bottom line is that people need to realize that they should get their irregular spots checked. Patients need to get melasma diagnosed by a board-certified dermatologist. Often patients with dark spots cannot tell the difference between melasma, sunspots, dark acne spots, and even skin cancer, so it is vital to have a board-certified dermatologist make the proper diagnosis – it could save your life! In addition, avoid too much sun exposure. While the sun is not a statistically significant factor in the development of melasma, it makes already-developed melasma patches worse, and can aggravate acne spots and worsen sunspots.
Have a skin care regime….once you are diagnosed with melasma, sunscreen, Tri-Luma, chemical peels, and/or Fraxel lasers are the best! Even after [dermatological] surgery, I tell patients they can keep the area covered, use Fraxel, and then use Tri-Luma to help eliminate scarring.
NZ: Thank you very much, Dr. Downie, for taking the time to do this interview! It was very useful and I feel privileged to have learned so much directly from you.
Alford & Hoff: Luxury Skin Care for Father’s Day
Flickr: Originally uploaded by Manisfive
As we all know, Father’s Day is rapidly approaching, and if your dad is anything like mine, he has probably gotten enough toolsets, colognes, ties, and sweaters to fill a garage. With that said, looking into skin care gifts for your father may be just the ticket this Father’s Day.
Alford & Hoff Skin Care is endorsed by Dr. John Gross, a noted cosmetic and plastic surgeon, author, lecturer, and associate professor at the USC Keck School of Medicine. According to data released by the company, use of the system results in “immediate firming results” of up to 60%, reduced appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by up to 70%, and moisturizing and overall appearance improvement by up to 85%. Although these statistics certainly sound impressive, one needs to keep in mind that these results are likely to have come from studies done within the company, and it is unknown from the website and press release alone if these studies were blinded or placebo-controlled to reduce bias.
Alford & Hoff Skin Care is defined by its inclusion of its trademark SIR2stac Complex, which contains sirtuins and other hydrating proteins, vitamin C, sea fennel, antioxidants (which are not specified), lavender extract, rice extract, tetrapeptides 7, dipeptides, provitamin B5, and beta-glucan.
The primary active ingredients of interest in Alford & Hoff Skin Care are sirtuins. Sirtuins essentially act as “energy policemen” in the cell, arresting unnecessary processes in the body by removing acetyl groups from proteins involved. In essence, sirtuins theoretically prolong the life of the fibroblasts (collagen-producing cells) by turning off unnecessary gene expression. This means that sirtuins should prolong the life of the fibroblasts in your skin, enabling you to make collagen naturally for more years than if you did not treat your skin with sirtuins.
In a 2007 study published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, it was found that increased SIRT1 expression in the skin resulted in statistically significant improvements to fine lines and wrinkles, hydration, pigmented spot color intensity, complexion radiance, firmness, complexion homogeneity, and texture. Interestingly, however, while certain topically applied yeast peptides and calorie restrictive diets have been shown to upregulate sirtuin production in the skin, it has not been shown that topical application of sirtuins themselves stimulate sirtuin production within the skin in any non-company-affiliated, peer-reviewed, blinded, published studies as of yet [that I could find]. Despite this, however, the fact use of Alford & Hoff Skin Care results in the same improvements to the skin as induced in peer-reviewed scientific journal studies in which sirtuin production is upregulated suggests that topically applying sirtuins may in fact stimulate their production within the skin. Clearly, however, more research needs to be done in this area.
Antioxidants provide protection against future free radical damage. While some antioxidants like beta carotene and vitamins C and E work by “breaking the chain,” stopping free radicals from ripping electrons off of other molecules, other antioxidants, like superoxide dismutase, catalase and glutathione peroxidase slow the free radical chain reaction by stabilizing the reactive free radicals. As the body does not produce or ingest enough antioxidants to neutralize all of the free radicals, free radicals tend to accumulate a great deal of damage within the body over time. As such, many dermatologists recommend using antioxidants regularly to protect the skin from the long-term effects of free radical damage. Unfortunately, other than vitamin C (a “chain-breaking” antioxidant), the other antioxidants in the Alford & Hoff Skin Care SIR2stac Complex have not been released by the company in the ingredients list online, so I cannot provide research on them. Despite this, the addition of antioxidants definitely gets one huge “thumbs up.”
As for the other ingredients in the SIR2stac Complex, which are found in lower concentrations than are sirtuins and antioxidants, sea fennel aids in hydration, lavender is traditionally calming, and beta-glucan is soothing. It should further be noted that, while lavender essential oil has received a lot of negative press as the result of a study in Cell Proliferation, there are also “numerous scientific and clinical data that support the traditional uses of lavender,” according to a review in Phytotherapy Research. In addition, many other factors need to be taken into consideration before renouncing the use of lavender in skin care, including the concentrations of linalyl acetate and linalool in the lavender compound (cytotoxicity was exhibited only with 51% and 35%, respectively), an individual’s allergic reaction, etc.. As always, it is best to consult with your dermatologist when making a decision whether or not to use a skin care ingredient.
As such, overall, I like Alford & Hoff Skin Care. While I wish that the formulation was backed up with more (non-company-affiliated, peer-reviewed, blinded, placebo-controlled published) research, I am overall pleased with the formulation. And as a gift, the luxury presentation is amazing, complete with an impressive list of celebrity clients in the Alford & Hoff Skin Care Celebrity Galleries online, ranging from talk-show host Maury Povich to football great Lynn Swann (go Steelers!). As such, a good skin care line and a great gift! Product Rating: 6.5/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 1.5/3. Value for the money: 1.5/3. Unique formulation or new technology: 2.5/3. Sunscreen: 1/1).
What about sirtuins for women? First found on the market as Pro-SirtuinSX in Avon Anew Ultimate Age Repair Elixir Serum and Night Cream, and now additionally in Time Zone Line & Wrinkle Reducing Lotion SPF 15 ($58.00 MSRP,Amazon.com) – amongst numerous other sources, sirtuins are all over the market! :-) Happy shopping!
Enter the Curél and FutureDerm.com Giveaway, in Honor of the American Red Cross!
This month, I am proud to announce that Curél and FutureDerm.com have teamed up in support of the “Share the Gift of Caring” campaign, which supports the American Red Cross, one of my all-time favorite organizations. Since 1881, the American Red Cross has provided domestic disaster relief; support and comfort for the military and their families; the collection, processing and distribution of lifesaving blood and blood products; CPR, first aid, and other life-saving training; disaster preparedness education and international relief and development programs. For more on the American Red Cross and its programs, please click here.
About the contest: Five lucky winners will receive a full-size bottle of Curel Continuous Comfort Original Formula Lotion (currently $9.68 on Amazon.com) just for entering! Five lucky winners will be drawn from random number generation on July 15, 2009 at midnight EST.
To enter, please put your name and e-mail address in Comments on FutureDerm.com only by clicking here! Entries on FutureDerm.WordPress.com will not be accepted. One entry per person, please.
More About the “Share the Gift of Caring” campaign: Collaborating for the second time, Cynthia Nixon (shown above) and Curél are proud to launch the “Share the Gift of Caring” campaign in support of the American Red Cross. Curél has made a contribution of $250,000 to the American Red Cross, and has pledged to donate $10,000 more.
How You Can Help the American Red Cross (for free, and in 5 minutes or less!): Through the “Share the Gift of Caring” campaign, you can make a donation without spending a dime! Just log on to www.curel.com and click to donate $1 of the additional $10,000 Curél is donating in a friend’s name. Your friend will receive a message from Curél letting her know, and she will be invited to share the gift of sharing with someone else—creating a chain of donations from Curél and you!
The Best Sunscreens for Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
On vacation in Hawaii right now (I’m sorry, I know I’m a lucky girl and I can’t help it), I’ve had a few friends in the area (and back home in Pittsburgh) ask me what sunscreen to use for their oily/acne-prone skin.
With that said, I’ve found a few products that have very promising ingredients for that very skin type. As always, however, check with your dermatologist before trying any new products.
Best Overall: LaRoche Posay SPF 60 Fluide Extreme ($44.00, Amazon.com). The first high-SPF product I ever used, this double-formulated (Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL) milky product provides superior UVA and UVB protection without a greasy feel or telltale white streaks.
Mexoryl (ecamsule) is an ingredient in chemical sunscreens that has been available in Europe for many years, and which came to the U.S. only this year. Mexoryl, available as SX (water soluble) and XL (lipid soluble), is very effective for two reasons: one, because it is very stable [as a benzylidene camphor derivative], and two, because it absorbs light at a broader range of UVA wavelengths than many other sunscreens. After absorbing light from this broad spectrum, ecamsule undergoes photoisomerization, followed by photoexcitation, which means that it causes for UV light to be released as thermal energy rather than allowing for UV light to be absorbed into the skin and cause damage, as most chemical sunscreens do. Additionally, the combination of Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL are even more stable than each alone; however, Mexoryl XL is often not tolerated in patients with sensitive skin, and so only Mexoryl SX is featured in L’Oréal products sold in the U.S.
If your skin is not sensitive, but is oily/acne-prone, I believe this is the best product on the market. Best of all, beauty bloggers and forum contributors with oily/acne prone skin attest to its ability to protect without causing breakouts. Of course, always check with your dermatologist!
Best Drugstore Product: Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF 85 ($21.98 for two, Amazon.com). Let’s start off this review with a bit of disappointment: this product does not absorb nearly as sheer or dry as the LaRoche Posay SPF 60 Fluide Extreme for Face does. However, for the cost ($21.98 for 6 of the Neutrogena product versus $44.00 for 6.1 ounces of the LaRoche Posay product), Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF 85 still absorbs dry and sheer enough to make it the best in the drugstore class.
The main ingredient in Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF 85 is Helioplex. According to Johnson & Johnson, the parent company of Neutrogena, Helioplex is a stabilized, patented combination of oxybenzone and avobenzone that has been demonstrated in clinical tests to provide longer-lasting UVA protection than most other sunscreens. In fact, it has been documented (and cited here) that Helioplex is more photostable than even the Mexoryl SX found in the LaRoche Posay product – another reason to consider it!
Despite the superior protection, again, Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF 85 tends to leave telltale white streaks on the face. I personally use it everyday, but if I have an important event to attend, I automatically reach for my LaRoche Posay SPF 60 Fluide Extreme for Face .
Best Physical Protection: Physical sunscreens prevent UV light from penetrating the skin, while chemical sunscreens prevent subsequent damage after UV rays are absorbed by the skin. While some dermatologists (and research from the University of Arizona) swear by layering a chemical sunscreen under a physical sunscreen, knowing patients often prefer physical sunscreens alone because they often do not interact as much with their cosmetics (particularly when their sunscreens contain micronized zinc or titanium dioxide), and for an overall movement towards less chemicals in skin care.
With that said, the best physical sunscreen for oily/acne-prone skin that I am aware of is Mychelle Sun Shield SPF 28 ($30.67 for two 2.3 ounce tubes, Amazon.com). This sunscreen contains over 11% zinc oxide and under 1% titanium dioxide – the ideal formulation for UVA protection! According to a 1999 study by Mitchnik et al., microfine zinc oxide absorbs more UV light than titanium dioxide in the long-wave UVA spectrum, from 340 to 380 nm, and hence provides more effective UVA protection.
I personally have used the Mychelle Sun Shield SPF 28, and while I do not have oily/acne-prone skin (rather normal/sensitive), I thought that it dried well on the skin, with a minimum of white streaks. With all due honesty, I did not like it as much as the LaRoche Posay, but if you want a physical sunscreen, Mychelle Sun Shield SPF 28 may be the best out there.
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With that said, let me know you have any sunscreens that you swear by in Comments below! Please be sure to include your skin type.
Originally uploaded by Mark Interrante (aka pinhole) (flickr)
Spotlight On: Cerium Dioxide in Future Sunscreens?
Photo originally uploaded by livinginacity (flickr)
Cosmetics companies are always trying to develop the latest and greatest new ingredients to help improve the performance of their products. One ingredient with potential to revolutionize the sunscreen industry is cerium dioxide (also known as cerium oxide). Traditionally used for polishing glass, cerium dioxide is currently being developed with other chemicals (i.e., in combination with silica, or with a turbostatic boron nitride coating) to potentially provide additional scattering and reduced absorption of UV rays, like physical and chemical sunscreens, respectively. According to the Journal of Solid State Chemistry, doped (i.e., in combination with certain other chemicals) cerium oxide provides excellent protection in the UV-visible light range in comparison with undoped cerium oxide. Cerium dioxide also has been found in a study published in SCCJ to show higher physical UV protection than a micronized titanium dioxide particle. Best of all, cerium dioxide was found to look “more natural” and “less visible” to wearers.
So what’s the catch? As of yet, the safety profile of cerium dioxide (whether doped or undoped) in skin care has not been ascertained in peer-reviewed published scientific research. However, previous concerns regarding potential radioactivity of cerium dioxide have been linked to radioactive thorium contamination in unpurified cerium dioxide, not by cerium dioxide itself. Even so, we may be waiting for a few years before we know the true efficacy of cerium dioxide, as well as its full safety profile, much less a revolutionary sunscreen.
I’ll keep on the lookout for new products with cerium dioxide! In the meantime, please let me know your thoughts or if you have any news about cerium dioxide or sunscreens in general in comments below.
Crazy About Skin Care? Check out DermTV!
If you’re crazy about dermatology and love to watch online videos, you have to check out the brand-new DermTV.com, which features short and long videos about dermatological news, skin cancer prevention, and facial rejuvenation. Best of all, renowned NYC dermatologist Dr. Neil Schultz claims that he will answer your questions about skin care and dermatology through his site! (I don’t know where the man finds the time, but major kudos to him, and major perks for us!) Debuting today on the web, DermTV is definitely the new can’t miss site for dermatology (besides FutureDerm, of course 
).
Over the course of the past thirty years, Dr. Schultz has successfully tackled all of the major issues in dermatology and earned numerous accolades, including the honor of being repeatedly awarded the title of a “Top Doctor” by New York Magazine and Castle Connolly Medical. Dr. Schultz received his MD degree from The College of Physicians and Surgeons of Columbia University and received his dermatology training and board certification at The Mt. Sinai Hospital in New York City, where he is appointed as a clinical professor.
“My goal for DermTV is to provide people with objective knowledge, eliminate disinformation, and empower them to achieve younger, better, and overall healthier looking skin,” explains Dr. Schultz. “With the techniques, tips and technology they learn from DermTV, viewers will be able to create visible results, help to prevent premature aging of their skin and skin cancer, and have younger looking and healthier skin. I also want to enable them to reach out to me directly as a new resource for their personal skincare questions.”
Check out DermTV.com today!
Could Albolene be as effective as prescription Mimyx for eczema?
Perhaps, according to a study in the March 2009 issue of the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. The investigator-blinded study of 60 subjects questioned whether mild to moderate symptoms of eczema would be better alleviated with ($11.49 for 12 oz., ) or prescription Mimyx (typically near $100). While the study was exclusively versus Mimyx for mild eczema, it must be noted that each topical product was combined with use of a 0.1% triamcinolone cream for treatment of symptoms of moderate eczema.
In the study, fifty-nine of the sixty patients who completed the study were randomly assigned based on whether their eczema was mild or moderate, and the products were used on each patient on either one arm or one leg.
“After assessing the subjects at weeks one, two and four, there was improvement in both groups; however, there were no statistically significant differences between the subjects using or the prescription moisturizer,” says Dr. Zoe Draelos, M.D., who pioneered the study. According to the study, the individual patients also felt that Albolene and Mimyx performed comparably in terms of the healing of the eczema, when evaluating the redness, peeling, dryness, stinging, itching and overall assessment.
As such, if you have mild eczema and are currently using Mimyx, ask your dermatologist if switching to is a viable option for you. Or, if you have moderate eczema and are using Mimyx and 0.1% triamcinolone cream, ask your dermatologist if switching to and 0.1% triamcinolone cream is an option for you. Be sure to reference the 2009 Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology study by Dr. Draelos, and, as always, talk to your dermatologist before making any changes to your skin care regimen.
Register for FREE Skin Cancer Screening with Skin Cancer Takes Friends Program (sponsored by Olay and the American Society for Dermatological Surgery)
Each year, over 1 million cases of non-melanoma skin cancer and 59,000 new cases of melanoma are diagnosed in the United States alone, according to 2007 estimates from the American Cancer Society. While melanoma exhibits an impressive 99% localized 5-year survival rate and a 91% overall 5-year survival rate, there are still over 8,000 deaths each year resulting from skin cancer, and the American Cancer Society believes that over 1 million cases of non-melanoma skin cancer each year may be related to sun exposure.
As such, unprotected sun exposure poses a major risk to your health. Luckily, early detection can save your life, as skin cancer detected early has a survival rate of nearly 100 percent. For that reason, I’m so pleased to say that Olay and the American Society for Dermatological Surgery have teamed up to offer free skin cancer screenings through the Skin Cancer Takes Friends Program. In 2008, more than 300 dermatologic surgeons in 200 cities across 45 states performed over 9,000 free screenings.
Don’t miss this opportunity to save yourself – or a loved one! To find a participating dermatologist in your area, please click here.
Product Review: The Solution Advanced Anti-Aging Complex
As we approach the decade after the new millenia, most skin care products still choose to advocate either the “all-natural” or “traditional” skin care approach, focusing on one set of interests largely to the exclusion of the other. Fortunately, there is a solution: aptly called The Solution ($74.00, Envision-Beauty.com), Envision Beauty’s major anti-aging product includes four all-natural antioxidants (goji, grapeseed extract, acai, and centella asiatica) plus ten more traditional anti-aging ingredients (DMAE, alpha lipoic acid, sodium PCA, hyaluronic acid, lecithin, L-carnosine, retinyl palmitate, vitamin B5, vitamin C, and vitamin E). Despite its natural-meets-traditional ingredient balance, Envision Beauty claims The Solution still manages to be completely free of “parabens, ethyl alcohol, and harsh synthetic ingredients”, all of which is enabled in part by the product’s specialized “airtight” bottle. And despite all the benefits for the consumer, The Solution helps the less fortunate as well, donating 10% of all proceeds to Project Concern International, an organization which is dedicated to building healthy communities and saving the lives of children and families.
Antioxidant Goji Berry and Açai Berry
So what’s the catch? Other than the fact this product doesn’t contain sunscreen, there honestly doesn’t seem to be one, provided of course that you are not allergic to any of the ingredients. Goji berry and açai, for instance, have been marked as the “hot new antioxidants” on the market by the 2009 book Feed Your Skin, Starve Your Wrinkles. According to Sara Horowitz, Ph.D., goji berry, also known as Tibetian goji berry, Sir Argell’s Tea Tree, Lyceum fruit, and Western snowberry, is derived from the L. barbarium plant. For the skin, goji berry’s proposed activity is to prevent oxidation, though studies verifying this are limited: one in Phytomedicine (Zhao et. al., 2005) affirms that goji berry extracts have antioxidant and anti-apoptotic properties; another, in Medicinal Chemistry Research clarifies that the antioxidant activity is attributable to polysaccharides in goji berry.
Açai Berry (AH-sa-ee), an antioxidant-packed berry, comes from the Açai palms of Central and South America. Once harvested, açai has been called the “superfruit,” as it contains 15-22% vitamin C. Açai berry has been demonstrated in a 2006 study in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry to have significant antioxidant effects. In fact, according to the study, açai had “by far the highest oxygen radical scavenging activity of any food measured to date.” In fact, it has been suggested in the book Natural Products: Essential Resources for Human Survival that açai berry is the highest natural source of vitamin C found to date. Keep in mind, however, that CoffeeBerry, found in RevaléSkin products, is not edible and has been reported to have the highest ORAC (oxygen radical absorbance capacity) score to date. With this in mind, you may just want to eat goji and açai berries, and apply RevaléSkin products to your face. As always, check with your dermatologist for the best option for you.
DMAE
According to “Dimethylaminoethanol: A New Ingredient for Aging Skin” in the Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology (Baran and Maibach), DMAE is a simple amino base and a synthetic analog of the B vitamin choline. In skin care products, DMAE is commonly used partially as a pH buffer, with a basic pH of approximately 10 in the unneutralized state. In skin care, DMAE has been found to increase firmness in undereye, cheekbone and jaw areas (Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology, Skin Research and Technology); increase the fullness of lips (Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology); slightly reduce wrinkle appearance (American Journal of Clinical Dermatology); and slightly reduce inflammation of the skin (American Journal of Clinical Dermatology).
However, some concerns have been raised over the safety of DMAE, as it has been suggested in the British Journal of Dermatology that human skin cells cultured with 3% DMAE exhibit a moderate cytotoxicity. Despite this, these findings are limited to only in vitro studies thus far; in actual human subjects, DMAE seems to have a good safety profile, as stated most notably in the American Journal of Clinical Dermatology.American Journal of Clinical Dermatology. In these journals, application of DMAE has been found to be well-tolerated amongst patients, with no differences in the incidence of erythema, peeling, dryness, itching, burning, or stinging between the DMAE and placebo groups. An open-label extension of a related trial further demonstrated that the long-term application of DMAE gel for up to 1 year was associated with a “good safety profile.” As always, talk to your dermatologist about any concerns.
Retinyl palmitate
According to research by Fisher et. al cited by Dr. Leslie Baumann in her textbook Cosmetic Dermatology, retinoids are effective in preventing and treating the collagen loss caused by photodamage. UV exposure decreases collagen types I and III with 24 hours, but treatment of the skin with all-trans retinoic acid prevents the loss of these types of collagen synthesis. In addition, Fisher et. al demonstrated that application of tretinoin inhibits the induction of matrix metalloproteinase genes (more here), which are in part responsible for collagen degradation. According to Dr. Ranella Hirsch, president-elect of the American Society of Dermatologic Surgeons interviewed in the December 2007 issue of Allure magazine: “We have beautiful, profound data that shows if you use it for 20 years, you’re going to look a lot better than someone who doesn’t.”
So why retinyl palmitate and not retinol? Retinyl palmitate is a combination of pure retinol and palmitic acid (a substance typically used in cosmetics as a cleansing agent) that must be converted to retinaldehyde and then all-trans retinoic acid within the skin in order to be effective. However, retinyl palmitate is tolerated better by sensitive skin than other forms of vitamin A. It should also be noted that retinyl palmitate in high concentration displays results similar to that of retinol, but it is impossible to tell the concentration of retinyl palmitate in The Solution.
Vitamins C and E
Vitamins C and E “break the chain” of potentially damaging oxidation pathways, stopping free radicals from ripping electrons off of other molecules. This is in contrast to other antioxidants, like superoxide dismutase, catalase and glutathione peroxidase, which “slow” the free radical chain reaction by stabilizing the reactive free radicals. As the body does not produce or ingest enough antioxidants to neutralize all of the free radicals, which come from processes that are both endogenous (within the body, such as human metabolism) and exogenous (outside the body, from pollution, smoking, alcohol, and UV radiation, amongst other sources), free radicals accumulate a great deal of damage within the body over time. As a result, many experts recommend use of antioxidants and sunscreen to prevent UV-induced free radical damage.
According to Sheldon Pinnell, a dermatology professor at Duke University of School of Medicine who created Cellex-C about twenty years ago and later assisted in the creation of Skinceuticals CE Ferulic (which also contains vitamins C and E): “I was interested in how it [topical vitamin C, an antioxidant] could stimulate collagen synthesis. But we found that it was really good for protecting against sunlight.”
As such, vitamins C and E, as network antioxidants that reinforce each other’s activity and boost the activity of sunscreen, are excellent additions to The Solution. In addition, vitamin C has documented skin-brightening and collagen-boosting activity (for more, see here), whereas vitamin E may protect the skin barrier and protect against collagen loss by matrix metalloproteinases (for more, see here).
Overall Opinions
Overall, The Solution contains a highly unique combination of some of the most documented antioxidant (goji berry, acai berry, vitamin C, vitamin E), wrinkle-diminishing (retinyl palmitate, DMAE), firming (retinyl palmitate, DMAE) over-the-counter ingredients available on the market. While it is impressive, there are two caveats: First, the product lacks sunscreen, which is arguably the #1 anti-aging ingredient in skin care. As such, make sure you use it under sunscreen during the daytime hours. Second, always talk to your dermatologist before beginning use of this or any other skin-care product. Overall, though, I love The Solution! For another comprehensive blogger’s review, please check out my friend Nancy’s Beauty 411 Blog on The Solution.
Product Rating: 9/10 (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3/3. Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3. Value for the money: 2.5/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
